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Advice Sought for making a decision


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#16
Troy

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I'm not too sure about that motherboard... but it just might do the trick. If it doesn't work, well that's only $7.99 down the drain :)

I haven't heard of a Celeron R processor, are you sure it isn't just a standard Celeron with the Registered symbol after it? ®

How do you know it's a Celeron R (or ®)? What socket type is the processor?
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#17
SOORENA

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If the FSB is the same and its a socket 775 then it should work but then again I tried looking up the processor and all I came up with was what troy has mentioned Celeron ® not Celeron R.

Soorena
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#18
OGpmpdog

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If the FSB is the same and its a socket 775 then it should work but then again I tried looking up the processor and all I came up with was what troy has mentioned Celeron ® not Celeron R.

Soorena


Ahhhhhhhh!

Thanks to both of you for making me learn new things...I never knew anything about CPU socket sizes on motheboards....FYI, I pulled the Old CPU and the stock number is SL6ZY, Intel Celeron 2.50 GHZ/128/400...Mobo MS-6577 is a CPU 478 socket...Do you know anyone who wants to buy my old CPU? :)

My priority is to build my new PC by this weekend (I'm so pumped...but I'm concerned about properly lining up the heatsink/fan enclosure).

I plan to resurrect my old PC shortly afterwards...

I will be getting the following hardware for my old PC:

http://www.newegg.co...N82E16813186129

http://www.newegg.co...N82E16819112234

I didnt wanna spend this much for a backup system but there is too much sentimental value here...

I will keep you apprised of new PC build/backup PC resurrection progress.

Thanks again for all your knowledge...This sure as heyo beats the geek squad and the $100/hr labor.

:) :)
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#19
SOORENA

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Hope everything goes well :).

Soorena
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#20
OGpmpdog

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*UPDATE*

The new PC build has started...looks as if all components are in new condition...New Egg is grrrrrrrrreat!

The case is intimidating...there are lots of wires that I have no clue where they connect on the MOBO...anyway, I've installed the PSU, the CPU & fan (it was a lot easier than I expected), and RAM modules...

So far, the biggest pain was snapping the new mobo template in place on the case...a tedious drag!

My questions:

1) should I connect my DVD & HDDs before I fasten my mobo or vice versa?...Personally, I'd like as much room as possible to maneuver. The biggest challenges will be figuring out where the LED wires connect on the Mobo...

2) I have an ancient HP printer that works great...My new mobo doesnt have that "big" printer input connection...It is a smaller connection called "serial"...do I have to go buy a conversion cable or do I have to get a new USB printer?

Thanks to all who have held my hand during this odyssey...we are almost there.
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#21
Troy

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1) should I connect my DVD & HDDs before I fasten my mobo or vice versa?...Personally, I'd like as much room as possible to maneuver. The biggest challenges will be figuring out where the LED wires connect on the Mobo...

I usually install the DVD and hard drives first, but I don't connect the power and data cables until the very last thing, otherwise they get in the way. For the case cables, there should be a motherboard manual with very specific instructions and diagrams for this. This is the only part about building a computer that I don't like :)

2) I have an ancient HP printer that works great...My new mobo doesnt have that "big" printer input connection...It is a smaller connection called "serial"...do I have to go buy a conversion cable or do I have to get a new USB printer?

I'm pretty sure your larger one is called a parallel connection, so then you would need to look at something like a parallel-to-serial cable adaptor. Is this what you're looking for?

Edited by troy, 12 December 2007 - 04:54 PM.

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#22
OGpmpdog

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YES!

Thank you for the express reply...Talk about real-time assistance...

I just need to find out the exact serial port on my mobo.

Thanks again.
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#23
OGpmpdog

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*UPDATE*

Life sucks...I spent 2 days building the PC...will not power up...

I ensured that all connections were correct...Now, I'm trying to figure out if the PSU is live or faulty...Is there a way to test this?

Anyway, When there is NO power, are there any other components to troubleshoot.

Thanks.
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#24
Troy

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If there is no power, no nothing at all, then you can't go looking at other components. I would double check (again) that there is:

1) Power from the wall outlet (test a light in it or something)
2) Power cable properly connected to the case (pull it out and put it back in again, firmly)
3) Some PSU devices have a switch, make sure it's in the I (on) position

If this is all good to go then I would look to RA the PSU back to Newegg. It was the OCZ PSU that I recommended?
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#25
kidnova

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Before I RMA'd the PSU, I would disconnect all of the components except for the motherboard, processor, 1 stick of RAM, and the speaker. Then see if you get any lights or beeps. Also check your jumper setting.

Also, make sure all of the provided standoffs are in place and that your mobo isn't shorting out. As a last resort, pull the parts I referred to out of your case and put them all on a piece of cardboard (a pizza box works great) and see if you can get power.

Edited by kidnova, 14 December 2007 - 03:13 PM.

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#26
OGpmpdog

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If there is no power, no nothing at all, then you can't go looking at other components. I would double check (again) that there is:

1) Power from the wall outlet (test a light in it or something)
2) Power cable properly connected to the case (pull it out and put it back in again, firmly)
3) Some PSU devices have a switch, make sure it's in the I (on) position

If this is all good to go then I would look to RA the PSU back to Newegg. It was the OCZ PSU that I recommended?


Yes, my entire system, except the DVD writer, is based upon your suggestions.

I ll try out your ideas.

Thanks for all your help troy...I feel better already.
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#27
OGpmpdog

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Before I RMA'd the PSU, I would disconnect all of the components except for the motherboard, processor, 1 stick of RAM, and the speaker. Then see if you get any lights or beeps. Also check your jumper setting.

Also, make sure all of the provided standoffs are in place and that your mobo isn't shorting out. As a last resort, pull the parts I referred to out of your case and put them all on a piece of cardboard (a pizza box works great) and see if you can get power.


Which component's jumper setting?
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#28
SOORENA

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To test a PSU as I have said before you disconnect everything and connect the green and one of the black wires on the 24 pin mobo connector with a short piece of loose wire. Once the loose piece of wire is in place you flip the switch which will tell you if PSU is alive or dead, although I find that sometimes it wont turn on until you play with the loosed wire.

Soorena
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#29
OGpmpdog

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Thanks for all the suggestions.

*UPDATE*

I RMA'd PSU to Newegg earlier today; My reason was DOA...I found it frustrating to troubleshoot a product that costs me almost 100 bucks...I m still a little steamed. I ll probably lose the $15 rebate - replacement PSU will arrive after Dec 20! :)

Anyway, I ll be OK...I have finally connected everything, except the PSU. This job would have been impossible without everyone's assistance...Everyone pat yourselves on the back! It took me 2 days to build new PC...I know I ll be able to resurrect my old PC in less than 3 hours.

So, can you dudes recommend a list of RELIABLE PSUs between 500-600W? Also, are there any specific brand names with proven reliability, like my 19 y.o. JVC stereo?

FYI, my 4.5 y.o. HIPRO in my old PC still works---go figure!

Oh, 2 more questions:

What is the hub-bub about efficiency % and 80 Plus Certified energy efficiency?
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#30
Troy

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The OCZ is a very good PSU. Unfortunately, somewhere along the line, this particular one has become dead. Don't let that put you off a great brand-name. If they are mailing you the exact same model as a replacement, it should be good.

There are also other good PSU manufacturers that build units in that range - Antec, Thermaltake, Silverstone, PC Power & Cooling, Corsair, Seasonic... There's more, but that's all that comes to my head at the moment. Stick with the OCZ for now. And a 19 year-old stereo? Wow! That sounds like it would be too old to be of any good to me anymore :)

Efficiency is how well the PSU converts electricity from the wall into electricity your computer can use. The rest is lost in heat. So a unit that is rated at 1000W and 80% efficiency would be capable of actually outputting 800W constantly. You also need to be careful with ratings, because low-end PSU's will give themselves a wattage rating (say 400W) which is in actual fact the peak output, whereas high-end units will give the wattage rating as a constant output. It's a little difficult to explain, I've almost lost myself :)

Basically the higher the efficiency, the more reliable the unit will be under load, and the less heat output it will have.

Here are some reading links I was given by other members of this forum:
http://www.hardwares...com/article/181
http://www.overclock...pply-guide.html
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