Well it doesn't say anything about using dual channels.
What doesn't? Your manual sure does because that motherboard does indeed, support dual channel. If the memory works in channel 2, then no problem. If it does not work, I would just expect the computer to not work. I would not expect any damage to occur, if that is your concern.
About the PSU...I dont really understand multiple 12v rails. I know mine has 4 (12v1, 12v2, 12v3, 12v4) each gives 16amps. My graphics requires a minimum of 36A. Could this be a problem? Does this mean my GPU can only pull 16amps off the PSU? Using HWMonitor the 12v currently only shows 11.88V.
I don't really understand them either - I mean from a technical aspect, I understand them, but I just don't see all the fuss about them - for the very reason you mention. For multi-rail PSUs, the PSU must limit the amount of current any rail can use in order to keep a sufficient supply of current on the other rails. This can, and does lead to problems where there is not enough current on the rail, even thought the PSU has plenty of power. Since all the hype is NOT about safety, or circuit isolation, I can only conclude it is just another marketing ploy - not enough current on your 12V rail? Too bad - let me sell you a bigger (and more expensive) PSU.
This is why I like Corsair PSUs - they use a single rail. There are some multi-rail PSUs that will re-allocate on the fly - but that would be noted in the products documentation.
Although this was written by a PSU maker, therefore it is a bit slanted (especially about fans), but still it makes a good read -
PSU Myths.
Use the
eXtreme PSU Calculator Lite to determine your power supply unit (PSU) requirements. Plug in all the hardware you think you might have in 2 or 3 years (extra drives, bigger or 2nd video card, more RAM, etc.). Be sure to read and heed the notes at the bottom of the page. I recommend setting Capacitor Aging to 30%, and if you participate in distributive computing projects (e.g. BOINC or Folding@Home), I recommend setting TDP to 100%. Research your video card and pay particular attention to the power supply requirements for your card listed on your video card maker's website. If not listed, check a comparable card (same graphics engine and RAM) from a different maker. The key specifications, in order of importance are:
- Current (amperage or amps) on the +12V rail,
- Efficiency,
- Total wattage.
Then look for power supply brands listed under the "Good" column of
PC Mechanic's PSU Reference List. Ensure the supplied amperage on the +12V rails of your chosen PSU meets the requirements of your video card. Don't try to save a few dollars by getting a cheap supply. Digital electronics, including CPUs, RAM, and today's advanced graphics cards, need clean, stable power. A good, well chosen supply will provide years of service and upgrade wiggle room. I strongly recommend you pick a supply with an efficiency rating equal to, or greater than 80%. Look for the
80 Plus - EnergyStar Compliant label. And don't forget to budget for a good UPS with AVR (automatic voltage regulation).
EDIT:: okay i found the formula to figure out the amps on the 12vrail. My PSU gives 40A, that wouldn't cause a problem even if its barely over the minimum?
Oh? When I looked up your PSU
here, it does not say anything about combining the current when needed. In fact, it says (my
emphasis added),
Four Independent +12VDC Outputs, +12V1@16A, +12V2@16A, +12V3@16A, +12V4@16A
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