[3ffective]

#### THE ISSUE ####

Im usin my computer.

well its not a bluescreen, the screen will just randomly for no reason at all cover itself in blue pixels. (1920x1200)res
can still move the mouse which is like a huge square of blue dots as it moves through the other blue dots/lines. its really hard to explain
It will allso sometimes just go to a black screen.. then return to normal, but usually it screwes up really bad.

anyway. this will happen. then it will go to a black screen and require a restart ( im guessing its trying to reboot the graphics. )

On restart. the gigabyte loading screen ( first thing i see ) will have random white lines through the orange letter S etc.

on loading DOS(format(grey words/black backround) like computer information (all prior to windows) will be very messed up. its still there but you cant read anything. big grey squares and it just looks horrible. it will just go black ( im guessing its loading windows then ) cz u get the login sound minutes later but screen is still black.

iv cleaned out the graphics card. updated drivers. reformatted windows. i dont get bluescreen error although recently, i was having some bluescreen issues related to memory ( also random/running VLC ).

i really dont know whats wrong. it might happen 5 times in a day. it might not happen at all.

my computer will be 4 years old in march. the only thing iv added is harddrive.

There are no error messages.

to fix this second reboot. i have to switch it off for about 5 minutes and just wait. then itl work fine from like 1/2 hour - 30+ hours.

my powersupply is stable (checked all voltages with everest ultimate edition).
my graphics card runs hot (60+deg celcius). its a standard xfx 8800gts 320mb.

What should i do? are there any tests i can do on my gcard to see if something has failed?. trying it in another computer is differcult since i dont have another pci-E capable motherboard, and the issue is also random.

Another issue i had recently was. Windows Indexing Service would run randomly. using all memory, making my computer freeze/unusable for 30seconds-5minutes at a time. i disabled the service.
http://img340.images...290/indexer.jpg is a picture of that issue. ( look at the resource montior and random spikes in system memory.
http://img230.images...memorymahem.jpg is another picture i just cant explain.
i cant get a picture of the blue pixels because my computer crashes.

#### THE QUESTION ####

Why does my computer go into blue pixels/crashing/need restart/need break/need another restart?
Why does SearchProtocolHost.exe ( windows search indexer ) crash my computer/spike my memory?

thanks heaps. Leon. Feel free to ask me any questions.

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Hi Leon and welcome.

Let me correct one thing first. 60°C sounds hot, and for CPUs, 60°C is the threshold where I start to get nervous. But with a graphics card, 60°C is fine. They run hotter than CPUs - often into the 90° - 95°C range, or more! After reading a couple reviews for your card, I would not get nervous until the card's GPU hit 75°C under load. That said, if you do suspect heat, remove the side panel and blast a desk fan in there and see if it holds. You need to inspect the interior anyway, to ensure it is not full of heat trapping dust, the vents and fans are clean, and all fans are spinning fine.

The first step (after ensuring all cables - including any internal power connectors this card may require- are securely fastened) in troubleshooting graphics problems is to eliminate possibilities and that is best done by swapping monitors to another machine. If the problem follows your monitor, you know your monitor is failing. If the problem stays with your machine, you then know your monitor is good, and the problem is in your machine. You should always do this before dinking with drivers or a new card - monitors go bad too.

This does, however, sound like the card is going, but if me, I would want to verify my PSU is good. Everest can really only tell if a supply is bad, it cannot tell you a supply is failing, or unstable. See my canned text below on testing supplies.

You might also want to test your RAM. See my text on that below too.

I would not worry, for the moment, about indexing - which is used to speed up searches on your computer - the service is not needed.

Have you scanned for malware? Can you run in Safe Mode?
***
To properly and conclusively test a power supply unit (PSU), it must be tested under various realistic "loads" then analyzed for excessive [url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ripple_(electrical)""]ripple[/url] and other anomalies. This is done by a qualified technician using an oscilloscope or power analyzer - sophisticated (and expensive) electronic test equipment requiring special training to operate, and a basic knowledge of electronics theory to understand the results. Therefore, conclusively testing a power supply is done in properly equipped electronic repair facilities.

Fortunately, there are other options that are almost as good. I keep a FrozenCPU Ultimate PSU Tester in my tool bag when I am "in the field" and don't have a good spare power supply to swap in. While not a certain test, they are better than nothing. The advantage of this model is that it has an LCD readout of the voltage. With an actual voltage readout, you have a better chance of detecting a "failing" PSU, or one barely within specified ATX Form Factor Standard tolerances. Lesser models use LEDs to indicate the voltage is just within some "range". These are less informative, considerably cheaper, but still useful for detecting PSUs that have already "failed". Newegg has several testers to choose from. All these testers contain a "dummy load" to fool the PSU into thinking it is connected to a motherboard, and therefore allows the PSU to power on, if able, without being attached to a motherboard - great for testing fans, but again, it is not a true load or suitable for conclusive testing.

As mentioned, swapping in a known good supply is a tried and trued method of troubleshooting used for centuries, even by pros. Remove the "suspect" part and replace with a "known good" part and see if the problem goes away.

I do not recommend using a multimeter to test power supplies. To do it properly, that is, under a realistic load, the voltages on all the pins must be measured while the PSU is attached to the motherboard and the computer powered on. This requires poking (with some considerable force) two hard and sharp, highly conductive meter probes into the main power connector, deep in the heart of the computer. One tiny slip can destroy the motherboard, and everything plugged into it. It is not worth the risk considering most multimeters, like plug-in testers, do not measure, or reveal any unwanted and potentially disruptive AC components to the DC voltages.

And remember, anything that plugs into the wall can kill. Do not open the power supply's case unless you are a qualified electronics technician. There are NO user serviceable parts inside a power supply.
***

You can test RAM using one of the following programs. Both require you to create and boot to a bootable floppy disk or CD to run the diagnostics. Using the floppy method is generally easier (and another reason to include floppy drives in new builds). However, the CD method is just as effective at detecting RAM problems. Allow the diagnostics to run for several passes or even overnight. You should have no reported errors.

Windows Memory Diagnostic - see the easy to follow instructions under Quick Start Information.
or
MemTest86+ (for more advanced users) - an excellent how-to guide is available here.

Alternatively, you could install a single RAM module and try running with that to see if it fails. Repeat process with remaining modules, hopefully identifying the bad stick through a process of elimination.

[Digerati]

Hi Leon and welcome.

Let me correct one thing first. 60°C sounds hot, and for CPUs, 60°C is the threshold where I start to get nervous. But with a graphics card, 60°C is fine. They run hotter than CPUs - often into the 90° - 95°C range, or more! After reading a couple reviews for your card, I would not get nervous until the card's GPU hit 75°C under load. That said, if you do suspect heat, remove the side panel and blast a desk fan in there and see if it holds. You need to inspect the interior anyway, to ensure it is not full of heat trapping dust, the vents and fans are clean, and all fans are spinning fine.

The first step (after ensuring all cables - including any internal power connectors this card may require- are securely fastened) in troubleshooting graphics problems is to eliminate possibilities and that is best done by swapping monitors to another machine. If the problem follows your monitor, you know your monitor is failing. If the problem stays with your machine, you then know your monitor is good, and the problem is in your machine. You should always do this before dinking with drivers or a new card - monitors go bad too.

This does, however, sound like the card is going, but if me, I would want to verify my PSU is good. Everest can really only tell if a supply is bad, it cannot tell you a supply is failing, or unstable. See my canned text below on testing supplies.

You might also want to test your RAM. See my text on that below too.

I would not worry, for the moment, about indexing - which is used to speed up searches on your computer - the service is not needed.

Have you scanned for malware? Can you run in Safe Mode?
***
To properly and conclusively test a power supply unit (PSU), it must be tested under various realistic "loads" then analyzed for excessive [url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ripple_(electrical)""]ripple[/url] and other anomalies. This is done by a qualified technician using an oscilloscope or power analyzer - sophisticated (and expensive) electronic test equipment requiring special training to operate, and a basic knowledge of electronics theory to understand the results. Therefore, conclusively testing a power supply is done in properly equipped electronic repair facilities.

Fortunately, there are other options that are almost as good. I keep a FrozenCPU Ultimate PSU Tester in my tool bag when I am "in the field" and don't have a good spare power supply to swap in. While not a certain test, they are better than nothing. The advantage of this model is that it has an LCD readout of the voltage. With an actual voltage readout, you have a better chance of detecting a "failing" PSU, or one barely within specified ATX Form Factor Standard tolerances. Lesser models use LEDs to indicate the voltage is just within some "range". These are less informative, considerably cheaper, but still useful for detecting PSUs that have already "failed". Newegg has several testers to choose from. All these testers contain a "dummy load" to fool the PSU into thinking it is connected to a motherboard, and therefore allows the PSU to power on, if able, without being attached to a motherboard - great for testing fans, but again, it is not a true load or suitable for conclusive testing.

As mentioned, swapping in a known good supply is a tried and trued method of troubleshooting used for centuries, even by pros. Remove the "suspect" part and replace with a "known good" part and see if the problem goes away.

I do not recommend using a multimeter to test power supplies. To do it properly, that is, under a realistic load, the voltages on all the pins must be measured while the PSU is attached to the motherboard and the computer powered on. This requires poking (with some considerable force) two hard and sharp, highly conductive meter probes into the main power connector, deep in the heart of the computer. One tiny slip can destroy the motherboard, and everything plugged into it. It is not worth the risk considering most multimeters, like plug-in testers, do not measure, or reveal any unwanted and potentially disruptive AC components to the DC voltages.

And remember, anything that plugs into the wall can kill. Do not open the power supply's case unless you are a qualified electronics technician. There are NO user serviceable parts inside a power supply.
***

You can test RAM using one of the following programs. Both require you to create and boot to a bootable floppy disk or CD to run the diagnostics. Using the floppy method is generally easier (and another reason to include floppy drives in new builds). However, the CD method is just as effective at detecting RAM problems. Allow the diagnostics to run for several passes or even overnight. You should have no reported errors.

Windows Memory Diagnostic - see the easy to follow instructions under Quick Start Information.
or
MemTest86+ (for more advanced users) - an excellent how-to guide is available here.

Alternatively, you could install a single RAM module and try running with that to see if it fails. Repeat process with remaining modules, hopefully identifying the bad stick through a process of elimination.

[3ffective]

Ok. well i can rule out memory. i borrowed my mates 2x1gb gskill ddr2-800 and swapped it out with mine and the problem was still there. Ill do some more tests if i can get my computer to run into windows.

Lastnight, while i was sleeping, my computer crashed again. it had yellow lines through it/would not respond.
here is a picture i took with my cellphone.
http://img384.images...14102009001.jpg

After a Restart, i managed to take some more photos of what happened.
http://img384.images...amp;via=mupload
note: in this picture, the yellow lines you see are just my camera. the issue is that there are white dotted lines through the "s"

Then came this.
http://img94.imagesh...14102009003.jpg
note: its a little blury ( but as you can probably see, not normal.

After a few bars of windows loading, black screen. no response. i turned it off and just waited about 15 minutes.

Turned on my computer again.
Here is a picture of what happened this time.
http://img96.imagesh...14102009004.jpg
Again an "s" with white lines, but also two grey ones.

This soon followed onto this:
http://img238.images...14102009005.jpg

Then to this. note: the blue lines again.
http://img171.images...14102009007.jpg

and then finally to this:
http://img395.images...amp;via=mupload
after a while, this it decieded to go to a black screen.

i just turned the computer off ( using brothers computer to update this topic )

Maybe some of these camera shots of my computer's issue's will give you a better understanding of the problems i am having.

cheers, leon

[rshaffer61]

Can I add to this?
Integrated video (Built On Board] or is it a Add on card?
It looks to be a bad video chipset or bad video memory.
Have you tried a different monitor?

[3ffective]

ok. i just put my old 19" lcd on my computer ( having the issues ) and the 24" on my brothers computer.

Resluts
My computer still has the same issue:
Here is some pictures of my computer booting ( after a 30 minute wait. )using another 19" lcd
http://img26.imagesh...14102009012.jpg

there is also NO ONBOARD graphics card. the Motherboard is: Gigabyte m57-sli-s4
Graphics card is : xfx 8800gts 320mb.

and btw. i have taken out one of the two ram sticks and booted. its still the same problem. along with swapping them and booting a single ram stick. ( also tried my mates 2x1gb ram sticks in there.)

Edited by 3ffective, 13 October 2009 - 03:08 PM.

[rshaffer61]

Try a different graphics card.
You have taken all the other options out of the equation at this point.

[3ffective]

i dont have another one but im gna try get one

[rshaffer61]

Ok if you can just get a cheap pci card to test with, that is all you will need.

[123Runner]

I will add my 2 cents and agree with Rshaffer61 on this one. You have ruled pretty much everything out. The only thing left is the card and possibly heat on the card.

Have you cleaned out the computer and the fans of dust?
Have you pointed a fan at the computer with the side off? This will keep things cool and again point towards a heat issue.

[3ffective]

i have cleaned out the computer and fans of dust with air compressor.
yeah i ran it with a fan on the computer with the side of the case off. still wont boot normally

[3ffective]

took my computer to a mates. borrowed his 8600gts and it worked fine. put my card into his computer and it had the same problem..

problem found. graphics card.

[rshaffer61]

I thought so. Glad to see you tried your last step. This just verifies the issue now.