So far it's reading 47C and slowly rising.
How long does it take to get to 78°C?
If you are overclocking, don't.
The sandpaper idea may not have been a good one. "Lapping", as it's called, should only be done under very precise conditions, typically in a precision machine shop with precision machinery. Lapping by hand to create perfectly flat
mating surfaces generally has the opposite effect.
For future reference, when you seek help on multiple forums (not normally considered good etiquette, BTW), please reference those threads, or a least indicate what was suggested, and done. This is to avoid confusion for all concerned. You asked the same question on the AMD Forums
and was told to check your power supply, but I don't see where you have done that - although I see you have discussed replacing the PSU here
, but in reference to replacing the motherboard and CPU. It is always essential to ensure you have clean, stable power when dealing with hardware issues. See my canned text below on testing PSUs. And note you should decide on a the size of a new PSU after
you have decided what hardware you are buying - especially the graphics card, which often consume more power than CPUs. And while I also like Corsairs, Cooler Masters are good too.
I have never heard of Ultrix PSUs and cannot find them on any recommended lists. That does not mean it is bad, but it does suggest it does not have a good reputation either.
Testing PSUs canned text:
test a power supply unit (PSU), it must be tested under various realistic
"loads" then analyzed for excessive [url="http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ripple_(electrical)""]ripple
[/url] and other anomalies. This is done by a qualified technician using an oscilloscope or power analyzer - sophisticated (and expensive) electronic test equipment requiring special training to operate, and a basic knowledge of electronics theory to understand the results. Therefore, conclusively
testing a power supply is done in properly equipped electronic repair facilities.
Fortunately, there are other options that are almost as good. I keep a FrozenCPU Ultimate PSU Tester
in my tool bag when I am "in the field" and don't have a good spare power supply to swap in. While not a certain test, they are better than nothing. The advantage of this model is that it has an LCD readout of the voltage. With an actual voltage readout, you have a better chance of detecting a "failing" PSU, or one barely within specified ATX Form Factor Standard
tolerances. Lesser models use LEDs to indicate the voltage is just within some "range". These are less informative, considerably cheaper, but still useful for detecting PSUs that have already "failed". Newegg
has several testers to choose from. All these testers contain a "dummy load" to fool the PSU into thinking it is connected to a motherboard, and therefore allows the PSU to power on, if able, without being attached to a motherboard - great for testing fans, but again, it is not a true load or suitable for conclusive testing.
As mentioned, swapping in a known good supply is a tried and trued method of troubleshooting used for years, even by pros. Remove the "suspect" part and replace with a "known good" part and see if the problem goes away.
I do not recommend using a multimeter to test power supplies. To do it properly, that is, under a realistic load, the voltages on all the pins must be measured while the PSU is attached to the motherboard and the computer powered on. This requires poking (with some considerable force) two hard and sharp, highly conductive meter probes into the main power connector, deep in the heart of the computer. One tiny slip can destroy the motherboard, and everything plugged into it. It is not worth the risk considering most multimeters, like plug-in testers, do not measure, or reveal any unwanted and potentially disruptive AC components to the DC voltages.
And remember, anything that plugs into the wall can kill
. Do not open the power supply's case unless you are a qualified
electronics technician. There are NO user serviceable parts inside a power supply.