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Need Some Advice On Build


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#1
PrvtApple

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Hi guys, building my first system. I generally have an idea what to do, but I am have some questions.

If someone can be so kind to make sure that the parts I am buying are compatible with each other, that would be awesome! :)
Here is my list of parts:
Motherboard: ASRock P67 EXTREME4 GEN3 LGA 1155 Intel P67
CPU: Intel Core i3-2100 Sandy Bridge 3.1GHz
PSU: COOLER MASTER Silent Pro M600
GPU: PowerColor AX6870 1GBD5-2DH Radeon HD 6870
RAM: G.SKILL Value Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3
HDD: Western Digital Caviar Black WD1002FAEX 1TB 7200
CD/DVD Burner: ASUS 24X DVD Burner
OS: Windows 7 64-bit (Undecided on version)

Should I bite the bullet and spend extra to get i5-2500?

Is 600w PSU enough, or do I have to get something bigger?
And is there a cheaper modular PSU?

Should I buy a cheaper graphics card and buy a better one later?

I haven't found the right case yet.
I did considered getting RAIDMAX SMILODON ATX-612WB, but I read that RAIDMAX's cases aren't that good even though reviews are nice on newegg. And I it seems that a lot of cases cant fit a ATI 6870. I'd my the case to have front, top, back and/or side fan that is under $90 that is good. It doesn't necessarily have to have all fans on it out of box, I can buy after market fans later.

Advice is very welcomed!
Thanks :yes:

Edited by PrvtApple, 06 October 2011 - 08:08 PM.

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#2
British

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I'm not an expert but i am upgrading my own computer next week, your GPU states that it requires a 500W minimum PSU so you'll be fine with the 600W, may not even need that, the one thing you want to make sure is compatible is your CPU and Motherboard, if they aren't you could be wasting your money. Like i said im not expert but i gave what little info i could hope it helped. :] good luck with your build and wait for a real moderator to help you out before you go buying anything your not sure about.
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#3
British

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Also your CPU and Motherboard are a match so your all set there, not sure about your GPU though. GPU says it fits a PCI Express 2.1 x16 while your Motherboard has PCI Express 2.0 x16 and PCI Express 3.0 x16
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#4
iammykyl

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Hi PrvtApple , Posted Image

What will be the main use for your computer?
Have you set a budget?

Some info for you.

http://www.hardwareh...troduction.html
http://techreport.com/articles.x/20911
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#5
Digerati

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I pay attention to what's on my monitors and don't want or need my case to draw attention to itself. So I don't go for fancy facades (which go out of style), or flashing lights (which do nothing for performance, add some heat, consume some power, and do nothing for performance - worth repeating). Also, I will never buy another case that does not have a removable, washable air filter.

While that case does seem to have lots of fan support, 80mm fans tend to be loud and don't move a lot of air compared to larger fans (120mm or larger).

Graphics compatibility is not an issue.

And is there a cheaper modular PSU?

Yes but you should avoid them! (1) Don't feed your new machine cheap power. The PSU is one of, if not the most critical component in your computer. Buy a good PSU from a reputable maker.

Finally, you failed to provide 2 bits of critical information needed to make wise purchasing decisions. (1) The budget and (2) the primary intended purpose of this computer.
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#6
iammykyl

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Hi.

These are 2 excellent cases in this price range and I use both for my builds.
The Antec has more fan control and is a little quieter.

http://www.newegg.co...7^11-119-197-TS
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#7
Digerati

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I forgot (2) above concerning cheaper modular PSUs. While modular PSUs can be helpful in providing good "cable management", thus making the interior look "tidy" and to help maximize desired front-to-back air flow through the case, modular PSUs have their own set of disadvantages/issues that cause me to avoid modular PSUs altogether.

  • Even the very best connector on the best modular PSU from the most reputable makers add unwanted resistance, and possibly electrical "noise" to the circuit. Cheap connectors, as found on cheap supplies, add more.
  • Any connector can break. Cheap connectors break more easily.
  • Unless hermetically sealed, moisture, dust and other contaminates WILL enter the connection which WILL affect conductivity and WILL add the potential for oxidation/corrosion. This is especially true in turbulent environments, such as the interior of a case cooled by fans.
  • Unused connections are totally exposed to these dirty environments, and if the connection is later used, may impact connectivity.
  • Connectors wear out or lose tension after several insertion/removal cycles, straight wires do not.
  • Modular construction cost more than hardwired (added assembly tasks and more parts) and at the same time, provides no improvement in conductivity - in fact, it degrades it.
  • Unused cables must be stored somewhere (see next issues).
  • There is no industry standard for computer PSU modular connectors. This means if you have 3 modular PSUs, you must keep track of which cables go with which PSU. With multiple computers/PSUs, this can create a storage, tagging, and inventory nightmare. To avoid mixing or losing cables, they often end up being stored in the bottom of the case, which is not very "tidy" looking, and becomes a dust trap.
  • Unused cables are often misplaced, thrown away, or lost. Lost cables may result in needing a new PSU to add new hardware.
So I will take a wired PSU over modular any day, and tuck/tie the unused cables behind the motherboard plate or into a spare drive bay where I can easily pull them out if needed in the future.
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#8
PrvtApple

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Thanks for all the help and links! I learned a lot thanks to you guys!

Finally, you failed to provide 2 bits of critical information needed to make wise purchasing decisions. (1) The budget and (2) the primary intended purpose of this computer.

Sorry about that, I forgot to mention those in my initial post.
My budget is $700-$800. I am going to start some to learn photoediting, and animating. And I will do a fair amount of gaming too.

You have also convinced me of getting a wired psu.
ORSAIR Builder Series CX600 V2 600W

I might also consider a cheaper gpu now and buy a better one later.

After looking around for cases, I have two choices:
Antec Three Hundred Illusion Black Steel ATX Mid Tower
Rosewill RANGER Gaming ATX Mid Tower

Again, I'd like to thank you all for helping me! :)
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#9
Digerati

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As I noted before, I will never buy another case without a removable, washable air filter. So the Rosewill is out for me. I happen to like Antec cases. They may not be the most stylish, but they are sturdy and well built. And besides, I tend to stare at my monitors and not my case anyway.

Note that graphics design can take a lot of horsepower. And note that graphics cards designed for good gaming do NOT make the best graphics design (CAD/CAE) cards. For that you need a "workstation" card, which as seen here, can be real budget busters.
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#10
iammykyl

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The Antec Three Hundred Case is very good. Take some time with cable managment as in this unit it can be a bit challenging.
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#11
PrvtApple

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I am not going to go heavy graphic designing at least for another year or two and I definitely dont have a budget over $800.

I am basically done choosing everything. If you guys can help me check out everything that would be great!


Motherboard: ASRock P67 EXTREME4 GEN3
CPU: Intel Core i3-2100 Processor 3.1GHz 3 MB Cache Socket LGA1155
GPU: PowerColor AX6870 1GBD5-2DH Radeon HD 6870
PSU: OCZ ZS Series OCZ-ZS550W 550W
RAM: G.SKILL Value Series 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3
HDD: Western Digital Caviar Black 1 TB
CD/DVD Burner: Asus 24x DVD±RW Drive
Case: Antec Three Hundred Illusion Black Steel ATX Mid Tower

Final price is $748.24, with tax and shipping.
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#12
Digerati

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You left out the OS from this most recent list.
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#13
PrvtApple

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I recently just bought Windows 7 64-bit, so I think I am set.
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#14
Digerati

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Sounds like a plan.
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#15
iammykyl

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The build is good, but, staying within your budget, you might consider the following.

You are using an i3 2100 on a P67 Mobo giving you no access to overloading (unless you intend to but a K series later) and no access to integrated graphics

The i3 2100 has Intel graphics 2000, for $10 more, the i3 2105 has Intel 3000 graphics,
http://www.newegg.co...090&Tpk=i3 2105

If not over clocking consider the H67 Mobo, and to get the best of both worlds, the Z68.
http://www.newegg.co...0^13-131-710-TS


I would build without a discrete GPU, see how the system performs, and if required, buy one.
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