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Fried motherboard? Stumped


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#1
Jim Lawrence

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Hi, first time on this board, seems like lots of savvy folks here.

I built my first computer in 1983 but that doesn't seem to have prevented me from still doing dumb things.

I have a desktop system I've run successfully for 4 years with:
Quad core 6600 2.4 ghz cpu
Asus P5w Dh Deluxe mobo
relatively new 512MB Radeon card PCI express 16 I think
8GB OCZ DDR2 RAM (2GBx4)
tons of SATA, couple IDE and several eSATA, firewire and USB external drives.

I think I fried my motherboard. I'd cloned my existing C drive in a Thermaltake BlackX eSATA dock, all worked fine.
opened up the case, disconnected power, pulled the old C drive, slapped in the new one, I have to pull the memory in my mid-tower case to get the drives out...had a [bleep] of a time getting the memory sticks back in to their slots and was pushing pretty hard on them to get them to seat (basically relearning what I'd forgotten since I built this system)

As always I was careful with static. Have never fried anything before.

hooked everything back up. turned on the power. Lots of fans and no beep whatsoever.

Here's what I've tried all afternoon:

removed all memory. no post beep
put one stick at a time in all four memory slots. no post beep
Was able to get one memory stick in one slot to give me the Asus splash screen, but no post beep...couldn't get beyond the splash screen.
pulled and replaced the CMOS battery (it was borderline according to the battery tester). Reset the CMOS jumpers. No post beep.
disconnected the new hard drive and reinstalled the old one. no post beep (NPB)
pulled the video card. NPB.
disconnected EVERYTHNG except the video card. NPB.
pulled the video card too. NPB.

I guess you get the idea: I've tried everyhting I can think of but I haven't had a single beep since I swapped the drives. I'm thinking I mangled something inside but always before, if I've had a config problem or failed component, I'd always at least get a post beep.

Anybody think it could be anything else?

If it is the mobo, I guess it would be smart to take it to a shop and have them do a definitive test. But it is a four year old mobo. If I rebuild using my components though I'm essentially getting a new computer, might as well for all the trouble...except I have so much stuff on my C: drive and I hate to recover it.

So, these questions please:
1. If I replace it with a new but identical Asus P5W DH Deluxe, will it boot without me having to reactivate with Big Brother Microsoft?
2. If I get any other motherboard, will the installed system even boot? Or will it be new installsville for me for everything?
3. Do you think it's a good idea to pull the motherboard and take it to a shop for a final troubleshoot, or just bag it and move on and quit whimpering? (And write the story that's due monday on my laptop?)

Thanks folks, hope somebody's got a clear and minimal time-spending solution for me, I'm ready to jump off a tall building.
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#2
phillpower2

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Hi Jim Lawrence and :)
Best couple of suggestions I can make would be first remove the MB and do a barebones set-up on a piece of cardboard (make sure it is larger than the MB) only connect the PSU, the GFX card, 1 stick of Ram and the keyboard.
You will then need to short out the 2 power on pins on the MB header to get the PSU to activate, you can use a small flat bladed screwdriver or a paper clip bent into a U shape, this is perfectly safe if you do not touch anything else, the idea is to see if we can get a BIOS screen if you do you can then add one component at a time until you find the problem component, you must power down and remove the power cord from the wall before adding a component, second suggestion try a known working PSU and third suggestion try and loan an ordinary PCI graphics card (not pci-e) again to try and get a BIOS screen.
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#3
Jim Lawrence

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Thanks Phillpower2, I'll give that a shot.

Don't know what you mean by the two power on pins on the MB power header though, please clue me in. Don't know header or what power on pins look like. Obviously I want to keep at least one of my two monitors plugged into the GFX card to see bios, yes?
PSU, power supply: why do we need to see if it's activating? Mobo light and all fans working, it's a fairly new Corsair 750W unit, I'm confident it's okay...excuse my ignorance.
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#4
phillpower2

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Hi Jim Lawrence

Don't know what you mean by the two power on pins on the MB power header though, please clue me in

On your MB you have have what are called headers and what these are is the connection point for items such as the power on switch (the case button you press to power up) the power LED, HDD activity light, reset and speaker, this is called the front panel header, other headers include CPU fan header, sys (system fan) and USB header.

Don't know header or what power on pins look like

On the MB and often in the bottom left hand corner there will be a series of different coloured fine wire connectors or in branded PCs like dell a single larger connection block, when this/these are disconnected a row of pins will be seen quite often ten in number for a front panel header. (see example .jpeg below)
Shorting these pins out on some modern MBs is not required as they have a power switch on the MB for testing purposes;

Obviously I want to keep at least one of my two monitors plugged into the GFX card to see bios, yes?

Correct and the reason why the GFX card is left in place for testing.

PSU, power supply: why do we need to see if it's activating? Mobo light and all fans working, it's a fairly new Corsair 750W unit, I'm confident it's okay...

PSUs have three differant output ratings +3.3V, +5V and +12V and it is possible for a computer to power up but not display if one of these is bad + powering up the PSU is required for testing other components one at a time until you identify and replace a bad component, you can only do this by getting the PC to post http://www.poweronselftest.com/

...excuse my ignorance.

No worries it is why Staff and Members give their time, to help others if they need it.

NB: FTR, Corsair PSUs are one of the best available and I both use and recommend them, but you will always get a bad one or it may have been damaged by some other element in the computer such as a short circuit so again do not rule it out but at present the MB seems likely and if excessive force was used inserting the Ram then bad Dimm slots or a cracked MB/soldered circuit may be the cause.

EDIT: .jpeg added, example MB header only.

Edited by phillpower2, 13 November 2011 - 04:20 AM.

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#5
iammykyl

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If you no longer have the manual.
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#6
phillpower2

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Thanks iammykyl :)
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#7
Jim Lawrence

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Thanks so much, I hadn't checked the board and didn't get an autonotify or would have respndled sooner...thaks to both of you, appreciate the detailed help. I've been looking through manual, just wasn't up to speed on the specific terms, that's all very clear and very helpful.

One last question: If I get an identical motherboard, which I've located online, but put in a more current CPU, (I have a 6600 quad core, 2.4 ghz as I recall), would that screw up my installation as it exists? Would I have to use the same CPU to keep from having to reinstall my OS and all the programs again?

Much obliged for the help.

Also, tried to "like" the posts but it gave me an error for some reason. Maybe becasue I'm trying it on an iPad?

JIm
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#8
phillpower2

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I hadn't checked the board and didn't get an autonotify or would have respndled sooner

If you havn`t managed to set this up yet, see top right corner of page, click My Settings, see menu to left of the page, choose Notification Options then Notification preferences and Topics and Posts.

Would I have to use the same CPU to keep from having to reinstall my OS and all the programs again?

Depends, are both the OS and CPU 64-bit for example, one cautionary note though is the type of OS disk you have full retail or OEM (original equipment manufacturer) you can use a full retail on any MB but an OEM disk is tied to the original MB.

NB: A thank you is great and us helping others is rewarding :)
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#9
Jim Lawrence

Jim Lawrence

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Hi, been a little busy since my last post, going through the "bone up on the latest tech" funky chicken.

The board was indeed fried. I hemmed and hawed, tried to decide, whether to replace mobo or go large, then obsessed on online reviews, testimonials, forum posts, comments at Amazon and Newegg and such and decided it was time to do a little hardware catchup.

by 3:30 this morning here's what I'd ordered from Newegg:

* NZXT Phantom PHAN-001WT White Steel / Plastic Enthusiast ATX Full Tower Computer Case $124.99
* ASUS P8Z68-V PRO/GEN3 LGA 1155 Intel Z68 HDMI SATA 6Gb/s $209.99
* Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W $319.99
* G.SKILL Ripjaws X Series 16GB (4 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1333 7-7-7-21 1.5V (PC3 10666) $94.99
* Corsair Force Series GT CSSD-F240GBGT-BK 2.5" 240GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD) $359.99
* Microsoft Windows 7 Professional SP1 64-bit - OEM $139.99 ea
* COOLER MASTER Hyper 212 Plus RR-B10-212P-G1 cpu cooler $24.95

Thanks again for all the help...I got educated, but the thing I really learned is once I made the decision, I'm suddenly a little kid again, very excited to build my new boffo rig, I hope this weekend. So I think that bit of carelessness that caused me to break the mobo was a subconscious cry for "Upgrade!"

Looking forward to 240GB of SSD too, been wanting to be at the computer and not play quick rounds of Freecell 97 times a day while I was waiting for things to finish loading or process etc.
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