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PC starts, but no display


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#1
rhymin

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My cousin's PC has quite the problem, it gets power but no display is shown on the monitor. We have used multiple monitors, 2 video cards of the same kind, and switched out the PSU and CPU. Still nothing. Could a bad motherboard cause this problem?

Here are the system specs:

- Rosewill Wind Knight Gaming ATX Mid Tower Computer Case with pre-installed 2x 120mm Fan, Support up to 1x 140mm top fan, ...
- Western Digital VelociRaptor WD1500HLFS 150GB 10000 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
- G.SKILL 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Dual Channel Kit Desktop Memory Model F3-12800CL9D-4GBNQ (x2; 8GB total)
- XFX HD-577A-ZNFC Radeon HD 5770 (Juniper XT) 1GB 128-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.1 x16 HDCP Ready CrossFireX Support Video Card (x2; 2 Graphix Cards)
- * MSI 790FX-GD70 AM3 AMD 790FX ATX AMD Motherboard
- AMD Phenom II X4 965 Black Edition Deneb 3.4GHz Socket AM3 125W Quad-Core Processor HDZ965FBGMBOX
- CORSAIR CMPSU-750TX 750W ATX12V v2.2 SLI Certified CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS Certified Active PFC Compatible with Core i7 ...
- Sony Optiarc 24X DVD/CD Rewritable Drive Black SATA Model AD-7240S-0B - OEM
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#2
phillpower2

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Hi rhymin, couple of questions;
Is this a new build?
Have you checked that the 24 pin main power and the 8 pin 12V ATX connections are securely in place on the MB?
Have you tried any of the other video card slots?
Have you tried booting with only one stick of Ram at a time, in each slot then doing the same procedure with the second stick only?
What happens if you power up with no Ram installed and if so what happens?

The answers to the above will determine what is suggested.
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#3
rhymin

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This is not a new build, the PC is around 1 1/2 years old.
I made sure the 24 pin and 8 pin power connectors were secured on the MB.
I tried other video card slots.
I tried your recommendation of only 1 RAM stick at a time with 2 different pieces in different slots, same problem exists.
I also tried no ram, problem still exists.
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#4
rhymin

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I also tried disconnecting all case cables and fans since the mobo has a power up option on it. (My friend had this happen to him and suggested it)

I was hoping this would work, but the same problem still exists.
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#5
rhymin

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The only part that we are not sure of that works that we switched out is a CPU from his old computer that has also stopped working. But wouldn't it be pretty rare if both CPU's were broken?

The only thing I can think of that we haven't tried is trading the mobos between each pc, but I was saving this for last since it will be the most time consuming.
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#6
Alzeimer

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You probably did but just in case did you tried to reset your BIOS CMOS settings to its default value

Edited by Alzeimer, 31 January 2012 - 05:14 PM.

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#7
rhymin

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The PC shows no display, not even the bios or mobo loading screen. How do I reset BIOS CMOS settings if I can't get to it?

Does taking out and putting back in the lithium battery accomplish this?
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#8
phillpower2

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The PC shows no display, not even the bios or mobo loading screen. How do I reset BIOS CMOS settings if I can't get to it?

Does taking out and putting back in the lithium battery accomplish this?


That is correct.
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#9
rhymin

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If resetting the CMOS does not work, should I try switching mobos? It is the only thing left I can think of that hasn't been tried.
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#10
phillpower2

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Best couple of suggestions I can make would be first remove the MB and do a barebones set-up on a piece of cardboard (make sure it is larger than the MB) only connect the PSU, the GFX card, 1 stick of Ram and the keyboard.
Press the power on button on the MB, the idea is to see if we can get a BIOS screen if you do you can then add one component at a time until you find the problem component, you must power down and remove the power cord from the wall before adding a component, second suggestion try a known working PSU, it is not unknown for new components to be bad, third suggestion try and loan an ordinary PCI graphics card (not pci-e) again to try and get a BIOS screen.
Other things worth checking include, if you used stand offs beneath the MB are they in the correct locations (only where there is a screw hole in the MB) otherwise the MB will short out, check for stray screws or bared wires for the same reason, make sure the jumper cap that can be used for clearing the CMOS is not missing.
If after checking all the above the issue is not resolved I would suspect a bad MB, especially after trying a replacement CPU.
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#11
rhymin

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I have tried everything you listed, even switching mobos and nothing.

The only thing I didn't try was making sure the jumper cap used for clearing the CMOS is not missing. I don't really know what this looks like or where it is located. Any help on that?
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#12
rhymin

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Also, I couldn't get ahold of a regular PCI graphix card yet, but I will be able to in the near future.
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#13
Alzeimer

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These might help you

[attachment=55839:MSI 790FX - GD70.JPG]

[attachment=55840:MSI 790FX - GD70 b.JPG]
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#14
rhymin

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The jumper cap is still on the clr cmos button, but I changed mobos anyways and the problem still exists.

I guess there is that very rare chance that both of these mobos are bad?

I am gonna put my old mobo in it and see if it works.
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#15
rhymin

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I put in my old mobo with my old CPU attached to it, and it takes about 20 seconds with fans fluctuating speeds, then starts up. It goes to a screen that gives me 2 options: Start Windows Normally, or Repair Windows. If I select Start Windows Normally, it will then get to the Windows startup screen and restart automatically. I will try to do Repair Windows by booting from the Windows 7 disc.

Does this sound like its the mobo or CPU? I can still try to figure it out by changing CPU's to see if it works with another one, which will, by trial and error, tell me that it is the mobo, correct?
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