[iammykyl]

Hey, we ended up returning the Motherboard for a replacement. If that doesn't solve the issue does this mean 100% the issue is the CPU?

No. If you just stuck everything back on the new Mobo, and hoped for the best? you could still have a part that is faulty.

We tested the PSU with a paperclip, shorting it to see if it'd turn on and stay on, which it did.

This only shows that the PSU will turn on, it does not mean that that it is delivering the correct current. The PSU must be under load, connected to components, this can be done with a professorial tester. Many computer stores will be happy to test your PSU if you take it into them, maybe ring them first.

Is your computer now working?

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Is there a computer shop near to you?

[iammykyl]

Is there a computer shop near to you?

[Noprisoners]

Hey, we ended up returning the Motherboard for a replacement. If that doesn't solve the issue does this mean 100% the issue is the CPU?

No. If you just stuck everything back on the new Mobo, and hoped for the best? you could still have a part that is faulty.

We tested the PSU with a paperclip, shorting it to see if it'd turn on and stay on, which it did.

This only shows that the PSU will turn on, it does not mean that that it is delivering the correct current. The PSU must be under load, connected to components, this can be done with a professorial tester. Many computer stores will be happy to test your PSU if you take it into them, maybe ring them first.

Is your computer now working?

Hoping for the best is basically what we're doing here right now lol. If the MB isn't the issue then this project is turning out to be much more of a hassle than expected.

We're still awaiting delivery of the new MB. I'll update the thread with what happens once that comes in. If that's the case with the PSU, I'll definitely try using mine on his setup then.

I don't know any computer shops off the top of my head around here but I'm sure there are plenty.

[phillpower2]

Sorry post in error

[iammykyl]

Hi.

\

Hoping for the best is basically what we're doing here right now lol. If the MB isn't the issue then this project is turning out to be much more of a hassle than expected.

You need to read the Mobo manual some more, especially on board switches and on board LEDS.

Having used and removed the CPU heat-sink and fan, it and the CPU will need to be to cleaned before re installing using some fresh Thermal Grease.. First choice is MX 4, + a cleaning kit like this, http://www.newegg.co...^35-100-010-01#

You always need to take anti static measure when working on the PC and when handling sensitive parts. You can discharge static from your body by briefly touching a bare unpainted surface of the case but a better way is to use an anti static wrist band like this. http://www.newegg.co...N82E16899261005

I also recomend you buy a internal system beeper, Article, http://www.brighthub...cles/67186.aspx I sometimes get mine from old PCs.
http://cwc-group.com/8ohm.html

Info, http://www.diy-gaming-computers.com/

[Noprisoners]

Hi.

\

Hoping for the best is basically what we're doing here right now lol. If the MB isn't the issue then this project is turning out to be much more of a hassle than expected.

You need to read the Mobo manual some more, especially on board switches and on board LEDS.

Having used and removed the CPU heat-sink and fan, it and the CPU will need to be to cleaned before re installing using some fresh Thermal Grease.. First choice is MX 4, + a cleaning kit like this, http://www.newegg.co...^35-100-010-01#

You always need to take anti static measure when working on the PC and when handling sensitive parts. You can discharge static from your body by briefly touching a bare unpainted surface of the case but a better way is to use an anti static wrist band like this. http://www.newegg.co...N82E16899261005

I also recomend you buy a internal system beeper, Article, http://www.brighthub...cles/67186.aspx I sometimes get mine from old PCs.
http://cwc-group.com/8ohm.html

Info, http://www.diy-gaming-computers.com/

I've got one of those speakers in mine I can use on his. Do you really need to buy a cleaning kit and thermal paste to reapply on the CPU? What would happen if we put it back in place as is?

[iammykyl]

What would happen if we put it back in place as is?

You would have overheating problems, the computer would crash, you would probable fry the CPU.
The TIM is highly conductive of heat. Only a very small amount is used and when squashed between the 2 metal surfaces it fills in any microscopic voids and scratches, dispelling air bubbles that are present. More heat can then be transferred from the CPU to the heat-sink base, pipework and fins which is then blown away by the fan.

Do you really need to buy a cleaning kit and thermal paste to reapply on the CPU?

Yes, you need new thermal paste. Any of the ones I indicated, they are non metallic, so should you drop a bit on the Mobo, or use a little too much on the CPU, it cannot cause an electrical short.

You need a cleaning fluid. You should not use things like, nail varnish remover, rubbing alcohol, meyths, etc., as they all leave a residue behind and if spilled can cause damage to other parts.

I indicated a cleaning kit as this is the easiest to get hold of. I use Isopropyl alcohol which my local drug store will sell to me. A bottle, about the same size as ear drops comes in, will last me about six months.

Good that you can use your speaker, it will help diagnose any problems if the come up.

[Noprisoners]

Would some local store carry this? Like a pharmacy or computer store?

[iammykyl]

A

pharmacy would (used the term Drug Store, as I thought you were in the USA. Some computer shops might, your best bet is to ring around. There may be a an alternative cleaner from some PC shops.

[iammykyl]

Have you received your new Motherboard yet?

If you are not up and going and as you had some issues, I think not resolved, would you like a step by step build/troubleshooter before you begin?

[Noprisoners]

Have you received your new Motherboard yet?

If you are not up and going and as you had some issues, I think not resolved, would you like a step by step build/troubleshooter before you begin?

Still waiting for the motherboard. I guess it can't hurt, not sure if it'll help though. I'm pretty confident the build is correct, I have been following one of those newegg tutorial videos on youtube.

[iammykyl]

I am sure the tutorial is good but there are some steps you could take to troubleshoot as you build. After reading your Mobo manual and a heads up from Phillpower2,
There are DRAM indicator lights and a MemOK switch.

Will post again tonight.

[iammykyl]

Hi.

Please follow the instructions below, please complete each necessaries step.
Remember to switch off between every step and take anti static measure even when handling parts. Number in brackets, (#) are from the Mobo manual Layout page.

1. Insure the I/O shield that came with the Mobo is installed in the case, fit from the inside.

2. Your Mobo has six screw holes. Check that the stand-offs on the Mobo mounting plate match exactly the paten and number on the board. No extra.

3. with a lint free rag or coffee filter, using a small amount of cleaning fluid, clean the bottom of the heat-sink and the top (flat surface) of the CPU. Inspect the CPU for any damaged pins.

Note, use the new PSU in the case for doing the tests. Set the tower, upright, on your right, front facing you. Place the Mobo on a piece of cardboard, larger than the board, on the left with the video outlets at the back..

4. Follow the manual to in tall the CPU, (I apply the TIM after closing the locking lever)

5. Apply TIM as per the instruction it came with.

6. You have already used the heat-sink/fan, insure that the locking mechanism is set correctly, see manual. Install the heat-sink/fan. Inspect the back of the Mobo and check that the locking pins are evenly engaged through the board.

7. Attach the CPU fan plug to the CPU fan header on the Mobo.

8. Do not install any RAM at this stage, or the video card.

9. Connect a video cable from the D-SUB socket on the Motherboard to the correct socket on the monitor.

10. Connect power cables from PSU to Mobo, the 24 pin (1) middle right and 8 pin (1) top left.

11. Connect a keyboard.

12. Connect the internal system beeper, WARNING match the + (positive) on the plug with the + on the front panel system header pins.

13. Power on the Monitor, you should get a message, "no signal".

14. Switch on the PSU, a LED on the lower left of the Mobo should light. (8)

15. briefly short out the 2 power on pins. (11)

The PSU and CPU fans should start and keep running. You should hear a beep code and the DRAM LED (5), should give a signal.

If the computer fails to start or starts and stops within a couple of second, swap the PSU for a know working one and do the test again.

[iammykyl]

A list of the beeps you may hear.

I will add more steps in the next post.



AWARD (long+short beeps)

1 long, 2 short, = Indicates a video error has occurred and the BIOS cannot initialize the video screen to display any additional information.

1 long, 2 short, Repeating (Endless loop), = Memory error. Bad memory or bad connection.

1 Long, 3 Short, = Video adapter failure. Bad video adapter or memory

High freq. beeps (while running), = CPU is overheating. CPU fan failure ** WARNING, switch off immediately.

Repeating High, Low beeps, = CPU failure. Bad processor.

Any other beep(s), = RAM problem.

Edited by iammykyl, 26 March 2012 - 07:08 PM.