Weekend gamer's first build built, but usb keyboard wont work
Posted 11 April 2012 - 09:25 PM
Posted 12 April 2012 - 05:08 AM
In that case, it is advisable to continue with the original Topic as it saves helpers from asking questions when the information is already available.
The is also the possibility the post will be deemed as a duplicate.
Posted 12 April 2012 - 08:27 AM
Are you using a USB type keyboard - have you tried all of the MBs USB ports**
If you are try using the wired PS2 type until you have the system running, this will allow you to set up the USB ports etc.
If you do not have a wired type keyboard you can use a USB to PS2 adapter like the one in the .jpeg below;
FWIW iammyky is correct you would have been better to advise us of this issue at your other topic, no harm done though as the different topic title may lead others with the same or a similar problem here.
**Some MBs have a single USB port set to work by default in the BIOS - USB port 1 which would be top left hand corner as you look at the I/O plate at the rear of the case.
Thanks to iammyky for advising on the two related topics
Posted 12 April 2012 - 02:48 PM
Posted 12 April 2012 - 03:01 PM
Best couple of suggestions I can make would be first remove the MB and do a barebones set-up on a piece of cardboard (make sure it is larger than the MB) only connect the PSU, the GFX card, 1 stick of Ram and the keyboard.
IF your MB doesn`t have a power test switch you will then need to short out the 2 power on pins on the MB header to get the PSU to activate, you can use a small flat bladed screwdriver or a paper clip bent into a U shape, this is perfectly safe if you do not touch anything else, the idea is to see if we can get a BIOS screen if you do you can then add one component at a time until you find the problem component, you must power down and remove the power cord from the wall before adding a component, second suggestion try a known working PSU, it is not unknown for new components to be bad, third suggestion try and loan an ordinary PCI graphics card (not pci-e) again to try and get a BIOS screen.
Other things worth checking include, if you used stand offs beneath the MB are they in the correct locations (only where there is a screw hole in the MB) otherwise the MB will short out, check for stray screws or bared wires for the same reason, make sure the jumper cap that can be used for clearing the CMOS is not missing or on the wrong pins and finally try a new or replacement battery.
Posted 13 April 2012 - 05:31 PM
Also the CPU was running at about 51c is that a decent temp?
Posted 14 April 2012 - 05:20 AM
On a side note Windows not booting could have been caused by a bad optical drive or the disk itself, a bad MB or CPU would have rendered the system totally inoperable, did you purchase the W7 disk from TigerDirect or Newegg and have you tried it on another system?
Max temp for your CPU is 72.6C http://www.cpu-world...2300833803.html
Please keep us posted and I hope you have better luck with the replacement components.
Posted 14 April 2012 - 05:35 AM
Posted 14 April 2012 - 05:42 AM
Posted 14 April 2012 - 06:18 AM
Posted 14 April 2012 - 06:27 AM
Posted 14 April 2012 - 06:51 AM
Is this what you are revering too.
A case most often comes with an I/O shield already installed. You must remove it and install the one that is supplied with the Motherboard. A ground (earth_ contact is made here when the Mobo is installed. This is the only permitted earth, (except through the wiring)
Stand-offs are screwed to the Motherboard mounting plate. The number installed must match exactly the pattern of screw holes in the Mobo, no extra ones as this may cuse a short to earth resulting in instability, failure to boot, permenant damage.
Posted 14 April 2012 - 06:54 AM