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Hello all, I'm upgrading!


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#31
iammykyl

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That's good news.
Please list your purchases as there was some swapping and changing.
Did you include an anti static wrist strap, like this, > http://www.newegg.co...N82E16899261005
and a internal system speaker, like this, > http://www.cwc-group.com/casp.html
Download your Motherboard user manual from the manufacturers web site as it may be more up to date than the one included in the retail box, also you can get to know the board.
A how to build, thanks to Troy

, &

Artellos

. >

http://www.geekstogo...r-own-computer/
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#32
Dastabah

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no to both the static wrap and the internal speakers. The speakers b/c I have some but I guess this is for before boot up so you can hear if the mobo beeps and whatnot. for static discharge I was just going to keep a hand rested on a grounded metal object. If you think those are necessary, I will buy them as well.

I bought these:

Case: http://www.newegg.co...N82E16811147060

Processor: http://www.newegg.co...N82E16819113280

Mobo: http://www.newegg.co...N82E16813157333

PSU: http://www.newegg.co...N82E16817371045

RAM: http://www.newegg.co...N82E16820104277

SSD: http://www.newegg.co...N82E16820227510

Edited by Dastabah, 28 October 2012 - 08:29 PM.

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#33
iammykyl

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Your parts list is good, all compatible.
You have a Optical drive from your old build?
You have the OS sorted?
Correct that the system speaker is for the POST, giving beep codes. That I would buy as it a very, very useful little gadget to have in the build and only a couple of dollars.
OK with the static discharge, though you do not have to continuously hold an earth source, it is OK to just touch occasionally.

A couple of critical steps.
Install the I/O shield supplied in the motherboard box into the case rear panel. If one is already installed, swap it out.
Check the number and pattern of the stand offs on the Motherboard mounting plate, they must match exactly the pattern and number of screw holes in the Motherboard, No extra ones.




Suggestions.
When you come to install the drivers and utilities from the Mobo CD, select manual not auto install. Look carefully at the extras, I seldom if ever install them as windows has everything you need or it is trial and Norton you will have to pay for or remove, there are better free solution.. Choose manual install with all programs to find the rubbish you do not want.

I would update windows, update drivers, , > then create a system image back up and a recovery disk, run with the default system for a week, resisting adding anything at all. There will be some optimization you can do to the SSD and the OS.
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#34
Dastabah

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optical drive: available
OS: purchased windows 7 ult disc
speakers: just purchased them.
I will try to follow everything else as well. So since the SSD is so small. Do I want JUST the windows 7 install to be on there and then the paging file to be on the HDD or how would I do it. Also, does that mean drivers save auto on the SSD?

it costs $2 and $6 shipping, :( ah well, bringing it in.

Edited by Dastabah, 29 October 2012 - 05:39 PM.

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#35
iammykyl

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You will only have the SSD and optical drive connected to begin with so, everything is installed on the SSD. Drivers are installed to the SSD.
When you insert the CD from the Motherboard box, the options are, Auto install or manual install, choose manual install. You will see a list with every box ticked. At the bottom under, something like optional or extras, will be items like Norton, Magic suite, etc. Untick the items you do not want.

The Page file, system restore, indexing, etc are adjusted at a later stage. Just to start with, install windows, install utilities and drivers from the Mobo CD. update windows, update utilities and drivers, create an image of the OS, create a recovery disk then get back to us.
The system speaker/beeper is smaller than a cotton reel and is attached to the motherboard and stays inside the case, is completely separate from the external sound system speakers.
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#36
Dastabah

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Slight problem/question. My case was delivered y'day and I saw 2 holes in the top of the back part on the outside. I have no idea what they're for as they are not labelled. You can see them if you go through the newegg views. But, a bigger issue is that I was planning on using my optical drive from my ancient computer, when I checked, the power supply cables were S ATA but I just checked the motherboard connection and I'm not sure if the cables are compatible with my new mobo. It's a gray cable in an IBM computers, I think it was labeled as an AWM. If it's incompatible I could use my optical drive from the Dell, except that one is strangly Incorporated inside the case. When I press the button the panel lifts up and the optical drive cd opening comes out so I don't know if it will be simple to remove this or not. If so, please guide me as I fear it will be hard to reinstall if I want to use the old computer.

Edited by Dastabah, 31 October 2012 - 08:33 PM.

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#37
iammykyl

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The 2 holes at the top with rubber inserts are for pipework if you install water cooling.
The large hole to the left is where the I/O shield is installed, find it in the Motherboard box, install from the inside of the case.
The large hole at the bottom is for the PSU, install from the inside, face the fan grill down so it sucks air in through the bottom filter.

SATA cable.
If the pins in the cable plug looks like this, (does not matter if one is at a right angle) You will be able to use it. Just noticed you said, "my ancient computer,It's a gray cable in an IBM computers" It being IBM, it is possible the optical drive requires a specific Driver, so you could still end up with an issue, even if the connections are compatible. It may also be limited in the type of disks it uses.

I suggest you buy this at $15, free shipping with Promo code, >

http://www.newegg.co...N82E16827106289

and a SATA cable $2.50, free shipping, >http://www.newegg.co...N82E16812119229


Do not use the drive from the Dell, just not worth the hassle. Later you could do a factory restore and sell it on the web.

Edited by iammykyl, 01 November 2012 - 03:25 AM.

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#38
Dastabah

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Quick update, parts came in today. built it completely, bought an optical drive, cheapo that makes my computer vibrate but eh, won't use it much anyway.
Hardware side: everything seems to work, plentiful amount of cables and slots left over, all fans are working, all ports are working.

SOFTWARE: I am having the most difficult time with installing windows. I can't go past step one which is reading drivers from the mobo CD. There are two options available, AMD AHCI SATA controller for Vista and another for windows 7, from the CD. I, of course, choose windows 7, after about 3 minutes it tells me that it can't be done and to contact my vendor for an updated version of the driver. So I go to asrock.com and find the drivers, my issue now is which one do I need and is simply putting it on a flash drive enough and then browsing for it there? http://www.asrock.co...4/?cat=Download

Much help would be appreciated. What I don't understand is how there's an updated driver already, the motherboard was released a month ago.
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#39
iammykyl

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Congratulations with the build, Posted Image
Did you backup your DATA to the external drive?
With only the SSD connected, did you boot up the computer with the Windows install disk in the optical drive?

You should get screens, as in this Tutorial, > http://www.sevenforu...indows-7-a.html
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#40
Dastabah

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yes to both, will look at screens

edit: tut didn't include what to do about old drivers

Edited by Dastabah, 03 November 2012 - 06:07 PM.

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#41
iammykyl

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tut didn't include what to do about old drivers



You are installing to a new unused SSD, (the mechanical HDD should not be connected yet) so there are no old drivers to uninstall.
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#42
Dastabah

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quick update. I'm speaking from the new computer :)

Turns out my SSD was connected wrong, fixed that, everything worked. Everything's great, I was going to optomize my SSD according to this: http://thessdreview....zation-guide-2/

but I installed CPU-Z first to see if everything was in order. I noticed my DRAM was at 931.6 MHz and the NB was at 1497.3 MHz, I bought 2 sticks of 1866 RAM so I don't know why this is, I changed the settings in bios to 1866 previously anyway. So I don't see why windows is calling it 931

Edited by Dastabah, 03 November 2012 - 07:49 PM.

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#43
iammykyl

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Slow down, I know you are keen to get everything done, but you need to proceed step by step, otherwise the installation will get stuffed.

Are you using a anti virus program? Have you updated your drivers? Updated windows?
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#44
iammykyl

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I noticed my DRAM was at 931.6 MHz

You are seeing the real clock speed of your RAM (931.6 MHz). Since it's double data rate (DDR) RAM however the effective clock speed would be 1866 MHz (1931.6x2). Real speed = 1866 MHz & effective speed 1866 MHz. Different programs show slightly different results and non I know off are 100% accurate.
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#45
Dastabah

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quick update: been running for a few days, very satisfied. Great quality/speed/graphics. Need some recommendations for a new heatsink fan, not for overclocking but just for this noise to go away, very audible! Also, I noticed my top fan and back fan both blow air outwards, is that for circulation or what? Because the only air that seems to go in is my PSU and my front fan.
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