[iammykyl]

I think you are right, time to do a clean install.
just going through your MB manual, see that it does support Bluetooth, so that unknown device was OK.

Can you read through the Software Guide and decide, (apart from Update 5, which I think you should have)what you want to install. >http://www.msi.com/p...?div=QuickGuide
Looking to control what is installed. Can you boot up your MB install disc. There should be two options, something like express and Custom/Advanced. Se if you are able to untick software you do not want, especially Bloatware and trials like Norton.
You did have an issue with the Optical drive, hence USB install. Recently fixed a similar installation problem. Windows was seeing the optical drive and the HDD together. By moving the Optical Drive to a SATA 3gb/s worked perfectly.
For your board, connect the SSD to SATA #1 and the Optical Drive to SATA #5. Disconnect the other HDD. Options to clean install
1. With the Optical Drive.
2. Using the USB.
3. Buy and install a new Optical Drive.

Regardless of which method I would like to keep the install as clean as possible, Only essential software. Running with the windows security, Avast! Free > http://www.avast.com/index. A couple of games for testing, No stress testing programs to begin with. If there is still problems,
Let us know what you think before proceeding.

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I don't mind doing a clean install but I am not sure it will work. Like I said previously, 2 days after I had the system up and running it already had 1 crash of the type I have now all the time. But it has gotten continuously worse with the crashes. Now it doesn't only happen every day, but several times every day making it almost to play games. Just look at the screenshot below and you will understand my frustration, since November 27th it has crashed every times and about 5 times per day. Sometimes at the beginning of the day it seems to run stable for longer, for instance if the PC was shut down during night which it always is. Then it can run for 2-3 hours tops before it starts crashing. And when it starts crashing, that's when [bleep] breaks loose. I've crashed 3-4 times within a single DOTA game and they only usually last 30-40 minutes.
http://i.imgur.com/0E05slY.png

At the moment, I only have the SSD installed of any Hard Drives, and it's in SATA1 already. By the way, SATA1 and SATA2 have 6 GB/s while SATA3-6 have 3GB/s. Oh, and I also went ahead and unplugged the DVD-Rom yesterday because I was very frustrated with things and I just tried to unplug in, while the PC was off of course.

I will try reinstalling Windows 7 from the USB and make sure to format the current Drive before I go ahead, to not create 2 partitions. The CD that came with the Mobo has all the important drivers I need, like chipset etc. I'd just like to say I fully understand the fact you want it to be as minimal of an installation as needed, so here are the things I am going to install, and please add or remove anything you deem necessary or unnecessary.

1) Windows 7, of course.
2) Chipset drivers and mobo drivers
3) Video card drivers that came with the CD
4) Avast Free Anti-Virus
5) A game (in this case Dota 2 since it;s the game I play 90 % of the time I play games).

If that combination of those 5 items can run stable I will be very happy. But I'm not sure since I was already very minimalistic when I installed Win7 the first time, I barely had anything more than that installed. I guess we'll see, I'll report back as soon as I can.

Once again thanks for the help, expect to hear from me soon.

[Colorado7]

I don't mind doing a clean install but I am not sure it will work. Like I said previously, 2 days after I had the system up and running it already had 1 crash of the type I have now all the time. But it has gotten continuously worse with the crashes. Now it doesn't only happen every day, but several times every day making it almost to play games. Just look at the screenshot below and you will understand my frustration, since November 27th it has crashed every times and about 5 times per day. Sometimes at the beginning of the day it seems to run stable for longer, for instance if the PC was shut down during night which it always is. Then it can run for 2-3 hours tops before it starts crashing. And when it starts crashing, that's when [bleep] breaks loose. I've crashed 3-4 times within a single DOTA game and they only usually last 30-40 minutes.
http://i.imgur.com/0E05slY.png

At the moment, I only have the SSD installed of any Hard Drives, and it's in SATA1 already. By the way, SATA1 and SATA2 have 6 GB/s while SATA3-6 have 3GB/s. Oh, and I also went ahead and unplugged the DVD-Rom yesterday because I was very frustrated with things and I just tried to unplug in, while the PC was off of course.

I will try reinstalling Windows 7 from the USB and make sure to format the current Drive before I go ahead, to not create 2 partitions. The CD that came with the Mobo has all the important drivers I need, like chipset etc. I'd just like to say I fully understand the fact you want it to be as minimal of an installation as needed, so here are the things I am going to install, and please add or remove anything you deem necessary or unnecessary.

1) Windows 7, of course.
2) Chipset drivers and mobo drivers
3) Video card drivers that came with the CD
4) Avast Free Anti-Virus
5) A game (in this case Dota 2 since it;s the game I play 90 % of the time I play games).

If that combination of those 5 items can run stable I will be very happy. But I'm not sure since I was already very minimalistic when I installed Win7 the first time, I barely had anything more than that installed. I guess we'll see, I'll report back as soon as I can.

Once again thanks for the help, expect to hear from me soon.

[iammykyl]

Thanks for the update.

If not to late, before install, can you reset the BIOS to default setting using the jumper method.

Items listed for the new install are good.
After install, and as soon as possible, Please change Windows Update to, Inform me of updates but do not download or install. or, turn it off for the moment. Would like to stop window making changes for the moment.

[Colorado7]

Alright, I'll make sure Windows updates are just turned off.

About the jumper method, how do I do that for my motherboard?

[iammykyl]

The jumper can be found, Page 6 of the manual, (Item list on the left,) JBAT1.You can find the instruction on Page 34 of the User manual. Caution, Must be done with the system powered off and the PSU switched off. leave the jumper on clear CMOS for about ten seconds, then move it back to Save settings, restart the computer normally.
Start the process for the clean install.

[Colorado7]

Update: I could not find the wire to put on the Jumper thing, so I just did a return to default settings in Bios settings before I installed Win7. Now I have installed chipest, audio, gpu and ssd drivers. At the moment I am downloading Dota 2 so I have my fingers crossed, I will report back as soon as the problem occurs or at the end of the day if it is crash free.

[iammykyl]

Thanks for the update.

I could not find the wire to put on the Jumper thing,

It is not a wire but a small plug. Please inspect again and confirm it is installed connecting pins 1 and 2. If it is missing, your BIOS will not retain any setting you set.
The image is for illustration only, not your MB.

[Colorado7]

I'm not sure which exactly part is supposed to go into the two (2) pins that are JBAT1. Now I didn't have any problems finding JBAT1, just not sure what I should put on there.

Regardless - I went ahead and installed Win7 and played games - it's been problem free today which is amazing. I went ahead and installed the bare minimum for my personal usage, which also includes Google Chrome and Adobe Flash Player. So far so good, I will report back if I have any problems.

I wonder what could have caused the problems, maybe a bad driver or duplicate driver of some sort?

[iammykyl]

Gday.
My apologies for instruction for clearing CMOS. I now see that there are only 2 exposed pins and no cap/plug, so the MB is OK and will save settings, so nothing further to be done there. You can clear the CMOS, with the computer switched off, by shorting out the 2 pins with a flat bladed screwdriver.

That is great it is running OK. Are you using reasonable GPU setting? Any glitches in the display? I would advise leaving the system as is for a week. You could test a little by running Chrome in the background with say 5 windows open, then play a game.

I wonder what could have caused the problems, maybe a bad driver or duplicate driver of some sort?

I suspect a driver, probable the GPU. Windows update, AVG, just guesswork really.

[Colorado7]

Good day iammykyl,

The GPU is running at a reasonable level, it reaches around 50-60 Celsius during gaming. I know the GPU is a little bit factory overclocked but it doesn't seem that the temperature reaches critical levels by any means. However I have never, ever overclocked it more than what it already is by the factory. Not with this version of Windows or the previous troubled version of Windows. There are no glitches in the display and no crashes. I will try your suggestion to run this setup for a week, and if 100 % problem free I will slowly add more things I need like Microsoft Office, adobe reader etc.

Thanks again so much, I can't really stress enough how much I can thank you for all this help throughout this entire long and enduring process. You're a true hero to the community and deserve the utmost respect and good in life. Hopefully we won't talk anymore again, not because I don't enjoy talking with you because I do, but hopefully my system can run stable. It might be a little premature to say that now after 1 day, but I am positive and hopeful. Thank you again!

[Colorado7]

I jinxed it 100 %. It just crashed. Same problem, Kernel-Power 41.

[Colorado7]

It seems that during higher loads when I play a game + listen to music / webradio + watch one or more twitch streams the computer fails and crashes. For instance while in desktop or web-browsing it never crashes, and even running twitch streams it does not crash. I don't know, it could be hardware problem but it's hard to pinpoint it.

[Colorado7]

Browsing other forums I found that sound drivers were often the problem. As you see below I have 3 sound drivers.
http://imgur.com/u9worrP

Logitech G35 - this is my headset and drivers were automatically installed when I plugged it in, it works fine. Please note that I did not install the Logitech Kit (or whatever its called) where you can change settings for your Logitech hardware.
NVIDIA High Definition Audio - This driver I did not explicitly install but I guess it came with the NVIDIA driver, I didn't even realize it was installed before now. I have now disabled it.
Realteak High Definition Audio - This driver I did install with the CD that came with the motherboard, so it seems fine. It is now disabled.

So, after disabling the NVIDIA and Realtek driver and restarting the computer, the sound still works 100 % fine (been testing already). Let's see if it stops the crashing. If it doesn't, I'll just go ahead and deactivate every single audio driver and see if that fixes the problems.

Fingers crossed.

[Colorado7]

It still crashed with just the G35 Audio Driver enabled. I'm leaning more and more towards a faulty PSU. Whenever I do more loads, the computer crashes (playing games, watching streams, music/webradio). And, I found this.
http://support.micro....com/kb/2028504

Scenario 3 is exactly what is happening to me - the BugcheckCode is always 0 (except for 1 time it was 126). On this website it states stop error, but I cant see that in my event viewer. But it also says that it could be shown at the website. Furthermore, powerButton Time Stamp is also 0 usually, although sometimes it shows a number. And lastly, I can't press NUM/SCROLL/CAPS lock buttons, they are unresponsive. And so is my entire system, I cant press CTRL ALT DEL, F4 or any other of those things that might have worked. If these things are happening, it states that the problem is likely a hardware problem - and it gives 5 possible reasons.

1) Overclocking - Yes, the GPU is factory OC'ed, but not by a whole lot. I have even tried to run down to minimum settings and clock speed without luck. I am ruling out this scenario. Also, the temperatures are not critical by any stretch of the imagination (60-70 Celsius during max load at Furmark Stress Test).
2) Memory - I did run memtest for +- 2 hours, and it didn't show any problems. Also way back when I had the old parts (I used my old RAM on my new computer), I did the memory test from the Win7 DVD - it ran for 6 hours or something without a problem.
3) Power Supply - During normal, desktop activities on Windows I have no problems. Not if I watch twitch streams or run even 10-15 tabs of Google Chrome. It seems that during high load (playing games) is when my crashes occurs. Maybe the PSU doesn't have enough power? It would seem a little strange that I can run games for sometimes 3 hours problem free, before it suddenly out of the blue crashes. Well, I have some suspicions about the PSU but it just doesn't make sense to me from a logical point of view.
4) Overheating - GPU only reaches 50-60 during playing games, so I doubt it's this. Also, CPU is even cooler.
5) Defaults - This step suggests setting everything back to default, but I just reformatted everything so I am ruling out this step.

What do you think?

Edit: Here is the link to the PSU I have, bought in November 2011.
http://www.amazon.co...S/dp/B0035WTD2Q

Edited by Colorado7, 03 December 2013 - 04:44 PM.

[iammykyl]

There was me sat after post 40 , swelling head, warm fuzzy feeling. I thinkk we both jinxed it.

We did the sound card bit before the clean install, ruled out + 1, 3, 4.
Windows Update is still turned off? You have added no other software since post 40? Is the second HDD still disconnected?
Could still be the RAM sticks, even having tested, you say it is "old" doubtful the slots on a new board. Remove the RAM, inspect for any visible damage, with a pencil eraser, gentle rub the fingers to clean off any oxidization. wipe with kitchen towel, blow clean with compressed air, do not use a brush, this will create static. Insert in slots 2 & 4.
Please download a new copy for Memtest86 > http://www.memtest86.com/download.htm (will delete all Data on the stick. Check Boot from USB in the BIOS is set as first) Run overnight whilst in bed.

PSU. Discussed earlier in the Topic. Where the tolerances you posted where in specs but the readings may have been in idle mode. It is not possible to get accurate reading from the PSU while under stress/full load at home. Some PC repair shops/outlets do have the correct tester. Some will do it for free or a small fee, so options are.
Get it tested.
Borrow a know working PSU with enough Amps, and test.
RMA the unit.