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First time building a PC (on my own)


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#1
tjdowney

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I've done a couple of custom builds when I was younger, but I had a very experienced friend slowly walk me through it. Unfortunately, he is not around any more, and I have very little knowledge of PC components.

I'd like a rig that will run 2014 and hopefully 2015 games well on medium settings. I don't need to max out graphics. I only play in 1080x1920 on my TV/monitor and I don't really care about how fantastic a game can look. I want great performance at medium settings in 2014 and decent performance at medium settings in 2015 with room to upgrade.

I've read a dozen or so "how to" threads and "help me" posts and threw this build together after reading them. I was trying to stay under $1000, but I made a few concessions after reading up on a few items. So... Will it work? Will it run well? Will it set my house on fire? Thanks for any feedback.

http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/2lxyb
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#2
SpywareDr

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http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/2lSsw
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#3
iammykyl

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Gday.
So you are aware. If you use a any cooling solution other than the one supplied with the CPU, from both Intel and AMD, you will have voided your warranty. Should damage occur, you are not entitled to make a claim. I always suggest using the stock cooler to start with and if you are really dissatisfied with the results, then install a after market one.
You will not use 16GB of RAM for gaming, only for photo/video editing/rendering. I have selected low profile, performs the same as ones with fancy heat-spreaders and ensures no problems with cooling solutions.
For a main drive, 1TB is more than enough, ideally you should have DATA stored on a 2nd drive. There is some merits in using a SSD for the Boot drive, but this puts up the cost.
500w is all you need for a system running 1 GPU of this class. When you see that "recommended PSU" it apples to the total system, not just the GPU. On the CPP page, near top, right side, Estimated Wattage:353W
I have included an OS.
This build will do everything you specified, but can't guarantee it will burn a house down.Posted Image

> http://pcpartpicker.com/p/2m49H


Alternative PSUs choice, all will run the system. > http://www.newegg.co...341-050:$$$$$$$
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#4
Alan1998

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You will not use 16GB of RAM for gaming, only for photo/video editing/rendering. I have selected low profile, performs the same as ones with fancy heat-spreaders and ensures no problems with cooling solutions.


As a Gamer and virus tester myself. I can vouch for that. I have 16GB of DDR3 RAM @ 1333Mhz. Even with Minecraft using 4 Gigs of RAM and my VM's using close to 6 GB's total (Spread of 2 VM's (5-1)). Even with recording and rendering I can't hit anything above 50% of my RAM used. You don't need all that RAM lol
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#5
phillpower2

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Not much difference between the list that iammykyl suggests but FWIW tjdowney list
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#6
tjdowney

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A few things to note, and feel free to correct me on these, because I really don't know much about this stuff.
- I don't plan on overclocking, so I shouldn't need the "K" unlocked CPU, correct?
- I took 16GB instead of 8GB of RAM because I was told there was a way to use some of it as a SSD or something. Is this worth my time?
- I overdid the power supply so I had wiggle room if/when I upgrade. Not worth the extra money?
- I currently have a 1TB drive on my laptop and its full. I constantly have to delete stuff to make room for new games, since its holding alot of movies and stuff as well. 2TB might do, 3TB is overkill?
- I overlooked the cddrive and OS because I have software here I'll be using, but forgot about how I'll have to install it, since I doubt I can install from a usb drive right after the install.
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#7
iammykyl

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Gday.

I don't plan on overclocking, so I shouldn't need the "K" unlocked CPU, correct?

At stock they do perform the same, so you don't really need the K CPU, saves about $10.

I took 16GB instead of 8GB of RAM because I was told there was a way to use some of it as a SSD or something. Is this worth my time?

You can
create a RAM Disk, but is not a substitute for a SSD. It is best used with photo/video editing/rendering. Quite a bit of work involved in running one. I would rather put the $$ towards a SSD. > http://www.pcworld.c...a_ram_disk.html

overdid the power supply so I had wiggle room if/when I upgrade. Not worth the extra money?

No. Your system will use undr 400w so you already have wiggle room for additional drives/fans etc. You would only need a higher wattage PSU if you were going to add a second GPU, something I don't recommend.

2TB might do, 3TB is overkill?


I consider larger then 1TB overkill and unsafe. Having a system with a single HDD of any size will degradeperformance as you are running the OS/programs and saving/writing to the same drive. I think this best practice. A 1TB HDD for OS and major programs, but not games if an SSD, (cheapest way to buy a performance HDD) or, a SSD.
A 1TB HDD for Games and storage. If you run out of space, add another drive. A backup method, Discs/USB/external HDD encloser.
If your OS gets hosed, you can do a fresh install without having to worry about Data loss.
Tip. No drive should be filled past about 75%, then performance will go down as you are writing to the slowestpart of the disc, it also needs room to work, i.e. writing temp files etc.

I overlooked the cddrive and OS because I have software here I'll be using, but forgot about how I'll have to install it, since I doubt I can install from a usb drive right after the install.

You can
download a windows OS ISO and burn to USB and use the licence key from the original disc. With some messing about, you can copy the files from the MB installation disc to USB as well. For under $20 it is less hassle to just use the Optical drive


FYI. If your existing Windows OS software is a OEM version and has already been installed/activated on a system, it is permanently tied to the MB on which it is installed and may not be reused on another different MB, (exception can apply), If the software is a full Retail version you can reuse it on a different system, providing it is removed from the original one.




.


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#8
tjdowney

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Ok, I throttled back on the RAM and Power Supply, threw in an optical drive (I have a dozen or so copies of Win7 from my old job here still).
I put a 1TB harddrive in and a 1TB solid state drive in.
Am I getting closer?

http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/2nvxj
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#9
iammykyl

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Gday.

Am I getting closer?

yes but,

and a 1TB solid state drive in.

This is not a SSD, rather it is a 1TB HDD, with a small NAND catch. originally released for use in a laptop that only had connections for 1 OS drive.

You will get much, much better performance using a proper SSD.
Please read this review, then you can decide. > http://www.storagere...top_sshd_review
> http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/1vgSP

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#10
SpywareDr

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Tom's Hardware > Best SSDs For The Money: December 2013
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#11
tjdowney

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http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/2qfex

This pops up as well...
Compatibility Notes

Kingston HyperX 8GB (2 x 4GB) DDR3-1600 Memory operating voltage of 1.65V exceeds the Intel Haswell CPU recommended maximum of 1.5V+5% (1.575V). This memory module may run at a reduced clock rate to meet the 1.5V voltage recommendation, or may require running at a voltage greater than the Intel recommended maximum.

Edited by tjdowney, 26 December 2013 - 08:40 AM.

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#12
iammykyl

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Gday.
That build looks very good.
Well spotted for the RAM. The Kingston 1.5v jumped to over $100 with shipping so selected the Corsair, does perform slightly better in benchmarks, but as with all class of the RAM, no difference on the desktop.
> Update 27/12/13, > http://ca.pcpartpicker.com/p/2qfTf

There ma be some sale prices in the next week, so worth clicking on price breakdown by merchant Tab.
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#13
phillpower2

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Very good price for very good CL7 1.5V Ram iammykyl :thumbsup:
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