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My PC won't turn on


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#1
jeremygex

jeremygex

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PC : Chillblast Fusion Sentinel
Processor : Quad Core Q6600 @2.4 GHz
Graphics Card : Asus Nvidia GeForce 1GB GT 610 Silent Graphics Card (fitted in August 2013)
PSU : Corsair HX620W http://www.corsair.com/en/hx620w.html
OS : Windows XP Pro SP3

More information on my PC before the graphics card was replaced :
Piriform Speccy information on my PC June 2013

SpeedFan results July 2013

CPUID HW Monitor results July 2013

Hello

My PC has always been plugged into a surge-protected multi-socket extension lead. The multi-socket extension is usually turned off at the wall socket when the computer is not in use.

When I turned on the extension socket this evening, it caused all electrical appliances to go off; the "main ring" switch in the fusebox/consumer unit had switched itself off.

I turned off the multi-socket extension at the wall socket, then pushed the "main ring" switch back on at the fusebox; other electrical appliances came back on without any problems. I switched on the surge-protected multi-socket extension and other PC devices turned on :- a subwoofer speaker and an external drive. I pushed the power button on the computer. It came on for a split-second and turned off. I checked the PC cable connection and pushed the power button again, but after several attempts the PC wouldn't turn on. I replaced the 13 amp fuse in my computer's 240v plug and tried again but it didn't work. I plugged the PC directly into the wall socket but it wouldn't turn on.

To test the PC's plug and lead, I used the PC plug (very briefly) with my monitor; the monitor turned on and switched to standby (as it would do usually). Other devices still work on the multi-extension socket and the wall sockets.

Do you think my PC's power supply unit is finished? Could it be something more serious inside my PC? Unfortunately I don't have a spare PSU for testing.

Thanks very much for reading and I appreciate any help you can give to me.
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#2
iammykyl

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Gday jeremygex.
With the testing you have done and given that other hardware runs from the surge-protected, it does look like the computer. The PSU is the first place to start as without knowing it is good, it is a bit hit and miss to test other parts.

As you do not have a spare or can borrow one, it needs to be tested, under load, not possible without a proper test rig. Most PC repair shops can do this for you, many for free or a small fee. Best bet is to ring around and try to find one locally.
Please let us know the result.

If it has gone kaput, hopefully it's protection kicked in and no other parts have been affected.
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#3
jeremygex

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Thanks a lot for your reply.

There's just one computer repair shop nearby. They said that it was probably a PSU problem, with a small chance of a motherboard problem or something else. They said for a £30 charge they would test the PSU under load and if it was faulty, they would fit a new PSU (costing about £50 to £60). If the PSU was not faulty they would test the motherboard and take it from there.

My PC is old and running Windows XP, so is it worth saving £30 by trying to fit a new PSU (Corsair 600W Modular 80 PLUS Bronze PSU - £53) myself? The problem would be if the PSU is fine but the motherboard (or something else) is faulty. If the PC is plugged in and there is a small light showing on the motherboard, would this mean there is a problem with the motherboard or elsewhere?

As you said, if the PSU has gone kaput, hopefully no other parts are damaged. My experience with hardware is limited; I replaced my PC's GPU last summer (newer GPU was inexpensive, requiring less power) but that's about it! Do you think it's more sensible to go to the repair shop?
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#4
iammykyl

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Gday.
Thanks for the update.
30 quid is a bit steep. lets see what we can do.
The light on the MB, near bottom right corner, is a warning light to show that the board is live but does not mean the PSU is good.
The computer tripped the house safety switch probably caused by a short. Now, Switching on the PSU, a light on the MB, no house safety trip, power on the computer, no house safety trip so the short no longer exists but a damaged component is tripping the safety circuit on the PSU.
We can try some more troubleshooting before buying any hardware.
Do you still have alternative access to the Net?
Do you have the MB User Manual?

FYI. Your computer specs say's it required a 400 watt PSU, and doing some calculations, a 500 watt would be more than enough for your system.
If you are willing to have a go, start by disconnecting everything plugged in externally, except, keyboard, mouse, monitor. > start the computer.
Do all the fans start and the computer not shut down?
Did you hear any beeps? if yes, what pattern? like, one long, two short, repeated.
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#5
jeremygex

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Gday
Thanks for replying. I've got a laptop here, so I still have alternative access to the Net.

I managed to find :
Asus P5K Motherboard User Guide
Asus P5K Quick Start Guide
Corsair HX620W PSU User's Manual

First of all I disconnected everything externally, except for the mouse, keyboard and monitor. I pressed the computer's on button, but got absolutely nothing i.e. no fans turned on, no beep sounds.

Then I disconnected everything externally, leaving just the power cable plugged into the PSU. I tried the computer's on button but got absolutely nothing again i.e. no fans, no beeps.

I took out the power cable, pressed the on button for 10 secs, opened the side panel of my computer's case and spotted the warning light located on the bottom right of the motherboard. I connected the power cable, turned the PSU switch on (making sure to not touch anything inside the PC), pressed the computer's on button and nothing came on; the warning light did not light up at any point.

Thanks for all your help and advice so far in finding the problem with my PC.

Edited by jeremygex, 28 February 2014 - 04:50 PM.

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#6
iammykyl

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Gday.
That light should be lit, please test the cable.
The power cable used on the monitor should be the same as the one for the PSU, try it, when you switch on the PSU, the light should light on the MB. Do not test the PSU power cable on the monitor, it may be faulty, don't want to blow up the monitor.

The only place you can get a shock on the computer is inside the PSU, but, but, it is possible for you to discharge static to sensitive parts and could cause damage. This is easily prevented by, when handling parts or working inside the computer, briefly touch a bare unpainted part of the computer case.
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#7
iammykyl

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Should have told you to test the wall socket again to make sure it is OK
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#8
jeremygex

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OK, I used the monitor power cable with the PC's PSU and nothing came on i.e. no fans, no beeps, no motherboard warning light.

I tested the wall socket (which is a double socket) with two other appliances in both sockets and those appliances worked properly.

Edited by jeremygex, 01 March 2014 - 08:04 AM.

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#9
iammykyl

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Sorry for the delay.
You can still do some more tests. You may end up with the system completely stripped down. You may still have to end up going to a repair shop or, taking costs into account, buy parts for this system/build a new one using as many second hand parts as possible. Review the How To and let us know. I will give you further instruction.

We need to see if the PSU is completely dead. This test will determine that but still will not test under load. It will mean disconnecting the PSU from the hardware inside the computer. As you have a non functioning system, don't think you have anything to lose.
> http://www.corsair.c...ir-power-supply
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#10
jeremygex

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I noted the PSU cable connections to parts of the PC, and was ready to take the PSU out for the test, but unfortunately I discovered that among all of the spare cables that came with the PC, there was no 2/3 pin case fan connector to Molex adapter, so I can't connect the PSU directly to either of the 2 detachable fans.
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#11
iammykyl

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Gday.
Most PSUs will not fire up without having a little load in the circuit, usually one fan, so you need this,
> http://www.amazon.co...r/dp/B000BSJGL0 or a realy cheap fan with a molex plug.
let us know how you go.
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#12
jeremygex

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Gday.
I found 2 items on Amazon UK :

1. Cable-Core Twin Molex LP4 to 3 Pin Fan Power Lead

2. Akasa AK-CB001 multi fan connection with speed reduction

I'm hoping either of these would be good for the test. If so, do you have a preference?
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#13
iammykyl

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Gday.
Your first one is the wrong input. The first 2 will be good.
> http://www.amazon.co...ductDescription
> http://www.ebay.co.u...n-/190484339898

Your second one would be OK. Choose the one that is the cheapest, including shipping. > http://www.amazon.co.uk/Akasa-AK-CB001-multi-connection-reduction/dp/B001J2YRU2/ref=sr_1_fkmr1_1?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1393838269&sr=1-1-fkmr1&keywords=male+3+pin+case+fan+connector+to+Molex+adapter
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#14
jeremygex

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Gday.
I've done the test:
How-to Test Your Corsair Power Supply

I used 2 fans that I disconnected from my PC's motherboard : I connected one fan at a time to the PSU, then connected both to the PSU. Also, I tried the test with 2 different power sockets.

Result : the 2 fans did not turn on and the PSU did not turn on (there was no fan noise from inside the PSU).

If the PSU is dead:
You said that a 500 watt PSU would be more than enough for my system, which sounds good as it would mean a lower price. However, because my computer is over 6 years old, the new PSU will probably outlive the PC. I wonder if it would be better in the long term to get a 600 watt PSU, so that I have a more powerful spare PSU when I buy a mid-to-high range PC (after my old PC is beyond repair).

Edited by jeremygex, 09 March 2014 - 04:37 PM.

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#15
iammykyl

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Gday.

If the PSU is dead:
You said that a 500 watt PSU would be more than enough for my system, which sounds good as it would mean a lower price. However, because my computer is over 6 years old, the new PSU will probably outlive the PC. I wonder if it would be better in the long term to get a 600 watt PSU, so that I have a more powerful spare PSU when I buy a mid-to-high range PC (after my old PC is beyond repair).

Yes, agree, the PSU is dead. As hardware evolves, power requires go down, so the suggested PSU will be enough both for your existing system and a new high end build with one GPU. The site used for searching and configuring is CPP, > http://uk.pcpartpicker.com/p/1IRz7 You could also use this site for pricing. > http://www.staticice... RM 550W&spos=3
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