[phillpower2]

The monitor information was just a FYI in case it was needed.

 

What do you mean by restoring your browser as in what steps does it entail.

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Pressing the browser's icon in the taskbar to restore it after having minimized it.

 

I might put my old graphics card back in to see if the issues go away. I don't have much time to play around with it. If I want to return the graphics card, I have to do so by the 17th. That's also when I have to send out the rebate by should I decide to keep the card.

Edited by Sode no Shirayuki, 12 April 2014 - 10:43 AM.

[Sode no Shirayuki]

Pressing the browser's icon in the taskbar to restore it after having minimized it.

 

I might put my old graphics card back in to see if the issues go away. I don't have much time to play around with it. If I want to return the graphics card, I have to do so by the 17th. That's also when I have to send out the rebate by should I decide to keep the card.

Edited by Sode no Shirayuki, 12 April 2014 - 10:43 AM.

[phillpower2]

Pressing the browser's icon in the taskbar to restore it after having minimized it.

 

Gotcha   

 

I might put my old graphics card back in to see if the issues go away. I don't have much time to play around with it. If I want to return the graphics card, I have to do so by the 17th. That's also when I have to send out the rebate by should I decide to keep the card.

 

Sensible approach.

[Sode no Shirayuki]

I got the black lines again, so I reinstalled the old nVidia card. What nVidia graphics card would be the equivalent of the Radoen 6450?

Edited by Sode no Shirayuki, 14 April 2014 - 03:48 AM.

[phillpower2]

I got the black lines again, so I reinstalled the old nVidia card. What nVidia graphics card would be the equivalent of the Radoen 6450?

Before replacing another video card you need to consider and check the following;

 

Swapping the PSU.

Having adequate free storage space on the HDD.

Making sure that your case has efficient case cooling.

[Sode no Shirayuki]

I don't think cooling or the PSU is the issue here. I've never had an issue with cooling before. I also recently had some Noctua fans installed, but they didn't really make a difference in cooling. The PSU has made a loud clicking noise before, but it didn't seem to affect anything. I haven't heard the clicking sound for a little while. I should have enough free space. The drive is split into 2 partitions. I originally set the system partition to 20 GB, but that proved to be too little space. I've increased it since to 40 GB because I always read that 40-50 GB is enough space to accommodate Windows. I will continue to increase it as I need more space to accommodate new Windows updates. The drive itself actually has around 150 GB free space. My system partition has become corrupt a couple of times, but Windows has fixed it on both occasions. I'm considering picking up a new drive if I find a good deal.

 

I don't want to put a lot amount of money in this computer. It's 8 years old and going. I'm just looking for a cheap and decent card to replace my current one because it makes the computer unusable. Plus, I don't have the time to test other parts out. The card has to be returned by the 17th. Besides, if I exchange the card for a new one and the problem persists, I'll know the card wasn't responsible anyway.

 

I haven't seen the black lines since I put the old card back in although I have seen the white flash when restoring my browser. Maybe it's happened before and I just never noticed it. I'd think something like that would be hard to miss though.

[phillpower2]

 

The PSU has made a loud clicking noise before, but it didn't seem to affect anything.

 

 As soon as the noise was heard I would have tossed the PSU in the trash or returned it if it was covered by warranty.

 

As a PSU puts out various voltages +3.3V, +5V and +12V it may appear that the PSU is working correctly but it is not, any significant drop of any output can prevent the system from booting up, the other scenario is a significant increase in the output which can be worse as it can fry one or more major components such as the MB, CPU, Ram, add on video card etc

 

 I should have enough free space. The drive is split into 2 partitions. I originally set the system partition to 20 GB, but that proved to be too little space. I've increased it since to 40 GB because I always read that 40-50 GB is enough space to accommodate Windows. I will continue to increase it as I need more space to accommodate new Windows updates. The drive itself actually has around 150 GB free space. My system partition has become corrupt a couple of times, but Windows has fixed it on both occasions. I'm considering picking up a new drive if I find a good deal.

 

 

Partition 0

Partition ID: Disk #0, Partition #0

Disk Letter: C:

File System: NTFS

Volume Serial Number: 7CE3AED7

Size: 232 GB

Used Space: 209 GB (91%)

Free Space: 22.9 GB (9%)

 

This partition needs between 40 and 50GB of free space available at all times, if you have got that the OS should be fine.

[Sode no Shirayuki]

I would have replaced the PSU under other circumstances. I do not want to replace different parts in this computer. I have already replaced the RAM because that died, and now I need to replace the graphics card to make the computer useable until I can get a new one. If I start replacing more parts, I would be upgrading the computer; and I see no value in upgrading an eight year old computer.

 

I didn't know each partition needed 40-50 GB free space. I thought the entire drive needed that space combined. I added 30 GB free space so I now have a total of 44 GB free space. I will extend the space as I need more. Does the amount of free space needed depend on the size of the drive and partition or is 40-50 GB free space fine in all cases?

 

Side note: A part of me wants to keep the new card. The black lines aren't really interfering with anything; not yet anyway. They're just somewhat annoying and distracting. I would usually decisively return it, but this is an old computer and I am due to get a new one soon. I may be able to look past the black lines for decent $30 card. Well, that's assuming I can get the rebate in. But I am concerned that the issue will get worse. That is what worries me and leaves me undecided.

Edited by Sode no Shirayuki, 15 April 2014 - 08:13 PM.

[phillpower2]

I would have replaced the PSU under other circumstances. I do not want to replace different parts in this computer. I have already replaced the RAM because that died, and now I need to replace the graphics card to make the computer useable until I can get a new one. If I start replacing more parts, I would be upgrading the computer; and I see no value in upgrading an eight year old computer.

 

Fully understand your take on this, will you be building your own or be purchasing an OEM system from a brand such as ASUS or Dell etc, the reason that I ask is because if you were building your own you could have purchased the PSU now to use in this computer and then transferred it later.

 

I didn't know each partition needed 40-50 GB free space. I thought the entire drive needed that space combined. I added 30 GB free space so I now have a total of 44 GB free space. I will extend the space as I need more. Does the amount of free space needed depend on the size of the drive and partition or is 40-50 GB free space fine in all cases?

 

This depends on the total storage capacity of the partition/HDD or the HDD on it`s own if used as a single unpartitioned storage device, I was taught to keep between 15 and 20% of a drives overall storage capacity available at all times to avoid possible data corruption, this was in the days when software was not so demanding or hungry for space and there were not so many software and OS updates being released to keep out the bad guys, 20 to 25% of available storage space being kept now is what I recommend, if I were partitioning a 500GB HDD into two that would contain the OS and the remaining space data only I would have a 120GB partition for the OS and the remainder for data.

 

Catch 22 with returning the new card I`m afraid but I would be tempted to return it and put up with the same problem on the previous card if you really must use the computer as it is.

[Sode no Shirayuki]

 

I would have replaced the PSU under other circumstances. I do not want to replace different parts in this computer. I have already replaced the RAM because that died, and now I need to replace the graphics card to make the computer useable until I can get a new one. If I start replacing more parts, I would be upgrading the computer; and I see no value in upgrading an eight year old computer.

 

Fully understand your take on this, will you be building your own or be purchasing an OEM system from a brand such as ASUS or Dell etc, the reason that I ask is because if you were building your own you could have purchased the PSU now to use in this computer and then transferred it later.

 

I didn't know each partition needed 40-50 GB free space. I thought the entire drive needed that space combined. I added 30 GB free space so I now have a total of 44 GB free space. I will extend the space as I need more. Does the amount of free space needed depend on the size of the drive and partition or is 40-50 GB free space fine in all cases?

 

This depends on the total storage capacity of the partition/HDD or the HDD on it`s own if used as a single unpartitioned storage device, I was taught to keep between 15 and 20% of a drives overall storage capacity available at all times to avoid possible data corruption, this was in the days when software was not so demanding or hungry for space and there were not so many software and OS updates being released to keep out the bad guys, 20 to 25% of available storage space being kept now is what I recommend, if I were partitioning a 500GB HDD into two that would contain the OS and the remaining space data only I would have a 120GB partition for the OS and the remainder for data.

 

Catch 22 with returning the new card I`m afraid but I would be tempted to return it and put up with the same problem on the previous card if you really must use the computer as it is.

 

1) Does this apply to Raid 0 configurations, too? Also, does this apply to solid state drives?

 

2) I'm not sure what "catch 22" means. I decided to exchange the card for an Asus 6450. I like the Asus' form factor more than the XFX's anyway. It has a much slimmer profile and thus fits more nicely in my system. It was between the Asus 6450 and the Gigabyte or MSI GeForce 610. All of the cards have a slim profile. The technician was helpful and explained the differences between them. The technician noted that AMD is known for creating poor drivers, which is why he personally prefers nVidia cards. He said that is probably the reason my AMD driver crashed often in Windows 8.1. It ultimately came down to the Radeon 6450's 35% increase in performance and the GeForce 610's fan and more reliable drivers. I chose the Radeon 6450 for now because I know it can play most of the videos I want it to play and with the settings I want to play them with. I'm not sure whether I want a fan. Also, I think the Radeon 6450 is cheaper than both of the GeForce 610's. If I still have issues, I'll try the Gigabyte or MSI GeForce 610.

 

I want to refresh my PC to see if that solves any of the issues I've encountered, but Windows won't allow it and provides no error code for troubleshooting. Windows gives me a troubleshooting link, but it doesn't do anything. I'm going to create a new thread for this though. I'm also going to replace the VGA cable. For a while now, I've been wanting to order a DVI cable on Amazon. Blue Rigger has cheap cables with very good reviews.

 

3) I'm actually going to get a portable computer. I don't have one currently, and a desktop won't cut it for school alone. I need the portability and battery so I can use the computer at my school or local library if my WiFi is down or power goes out. I also want the advantage of a battery, so I can use the computer during a thunderstorm without fear of an electrical strike frying my system. To play movies and anime, I plan to get an HD television that can wirelessly connect to a computer. I read something a while ago about an Intel (I think it's called Intel WiDi) technology that can wirelessly transmit HDMI signals between a computer and external device. I've done a lot of research already, and I'm pretty sure what features I'm looking for. I very much like the lightness and slim form-factor of the ultrabooks, so I'm mostly looking at those. I currently have two computers in mind: The 2014 Macbook Pro and the Yoga 2 Pro. I have my likes and dislikes for both computers although I don't really have any dislikes for the Macbook Pro because I haven't had the chance to thoroughly explore its operating system and software choices.

Edited by phillpower2, 18 April 2014 - 03:12 AM.

[phillpower2]

1: I do not use Raid so I will ask colleague iammykyl to drop in and advise you as he is clued up on such a set-up.

 

2: Catch 22 means you may win or lose either way, in this instance stick with a new card and lose your cash if it fails or return the new card and get your cash back and use your old card, if the old card fails you will not have lost the cash that you paid for a new card that could potentially fail.

I still suspect your PSU and cannot see things improving while it is still present.

 

3: Never used a Mac but I hear that they are very good but also very expensive, I believe that the upgrade and repair costs for them are frightening btw - $130 for the supply and fit of a new battery for example.

[Sode no Shirayuki]

1) Okay, thanks.

 

2) I see. The problem is the old card makes the computer literally unusable. A new card will make the computer usable again, if only temporary. Really, it only needs to last until I can get a new computer. I'll probably hold onto this card unless the driver starts crashing again. If it does, I'll probably return it for the nVidia card. I can't stand the driver crashing all the time. Also, Windows can't always recover the driver so sometimes it results in a blue screen. I want to see if refreshing the PC helps at all, but Windows won't allow it. I made a thread about that. If you want to see what the old card does to my screen, you can check out these images:

 

http://postimg.org/image/jdakc6x5x/

 

http://postimg.org/image/m6vkap2gj/

 

http://postimg.org/image/r7za170gd/

 

3) Yeah, I often read good things about Macs. The display is quite gorgeous, too, and Apple seems to have done something to significantly reduce glare on the 2014 model. I checked one out at Bestbuy, and Bestbuy has a ton of lighting. I didn't notice any reflection of people or objects at all. The only time I saw a reflection is when I could see the source of the light. In that case, I could see the light. I don't think that will really be an issue though. But I haven't tested it when looking at dark backgrounds or dark scenes. I also need to test it in various other atmospheres with different lighting.

 

The 2014 Macbook Pro actually isn't expensive compared to ultrabooks with similar specifications. The pricing is very close. The Macbook Pro is actually cheaper than some ultrabooks. For example, the 2014 Macbook Pro that has the 500GB solid state drive is $1700-1800 at Bestbuy while the Sony Vaio Pro 13 with a 500Gb solid state drive is over $2000. Even if one purchased the Sony Vaio Pro 13 with a 128GB drive and a 500GB solid state drive seperately, one would still pay about the same price as the 2014 Macbook Pro or more depending on where the Sony Vaio Pro 13 is purchased from; but the Macbook Pro will have better graphics and a better processor. So, the Macbook Pro is about the same price as ultrabooks with similar specifications and sometimes even a better value. The exception to this is the Yoga 2 Pro which is priced around $300 less than other ultrabooks with the same specifications and it's even cheaper if I can get a student discount on it. It's the best-value ultrabook that I could find. Of course, this doesn't factor repair costs. Repair costs for the Macbook Pro might be more expensive, but it may be worth it if there's an apple repair shop nearby and I don't have to put up with Windows. I have spent so much time troubleshooting Windows, it's absurd.

 

There's Linux. However, I doubt computer manufacturers will provide support for the computer if I install Linux. Why would they? Their computers are designed, built, and configured with Windows in mind. There are some places that build custom PCs that are configured and tested for Linux, but I'm not sure what places are good to shop. I'll also have to worry about shipping costs. I may humor myself and take a look at some websites anyway. Are there any websites you can recommend?

 

I don't think I'll need to worry about upgrading a Macbook Pro. The only thing I may upgrade is the solid state drive if they drop significantly in price. That's assuming I get the 256GB model and not the 500GB one. Otherwise, I think the 8GB RAM and speed of a solid state drive pretty much future proof it for many years.

Edited by Sode no Shirayuki, 18 April 2014 - 05:24 AM.

[phillpower2]

I have asked iammykyl to drop in and answer your Raid question.

 

The screenshots look like a driver issue, can I ask what drivers you have installed.

 

Thanks for the information on the Mac notebooks 

 

8GB of 1600MHz Ram, 256GB SSD + a 1TB external HDD that you could leave at home should cover all angles for you.

[Sode no Shirayuki]

The screenshots look like a driver issue, can I ask what drivers you have installed.

 

Version 307.74 is the latest version for the 7300 LE and Windows 8 on nVidia's website. That's what I use. I have also tried numerous other versions, both very old and more recent ones. The issue occurs when using all of them. However, the issue doesn't occur with no driver installed. Of course, that presents problems of its own though. Explorer lags a lot, text and picture is blurry, and it's difficult on the eyes.

 

Edit: I think I tested this on Windows XP, but I don't see why the result would be any different on Windows 8.1. The issue actually seems to be worse on Windows 8.1 than on Windows XP. I assume this because Windows 8.1. is more graphically demanding than Windows XP.

 

8GB of 1600MHz Ram, 256GB SSD + a 1TB external HDD that you could leave at home should cover all angles for you.

 

Yeah, but I'll probably get a 2TB external drive so I can store system images on it, too. I have a 1TB drive right now, and it doesn't have enough space left to store system images on it. I like the slim form-factor of the Western Digital portable external drives. I might get one those.

Edited by Sode no Shirayuki, 19 April 2014 - 08:40 AM.

[iammykyl]

Gday.

For most RAID arrays I would apply the same free space reserve for smaller drives, as a HDD would still need a workspace but when you get to !TB size and up, I don't think there is much need to worry about it.

Here is an overview of the most common RAID configuration, >  http://uk.hardware.i...id-0-n-striping

For SSDs, consensus is 10% for a drive that is always heavily written too and 5% for a drive that is almost all reads.

 

Re you GPU driver problems,   Have you used a total graphics driver uninstaller?