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Something keeps eating space on my HD


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#16
Phlegmbot

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Hi, R!

 

Last night I signed off with 13.6 gigs of space on the HD. I shut down. I booted up, and as soon as Windows was open, I checked my space: 13.0.

 

I checked out the links you gave me. And followed the steps. OK. I now have 81.7 Gigs free.

 

I kept just one of the System Restore point. Should I turn off System Restore?

 

I have to admit, I'm not sure this was the problem. I mean, even w/System Restore on, nothing has ever suddenly eaten up so much space so fast. I've been down to less than 5 gigs before, deleted stuff, gotten the number back up, and everything was fine. Not this time. Whatever it is this time is acting like a worm. Thoughts?


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#17
RKinner

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I would not turn off System Restore.  It sounds like your System Restore is being allowed to use too much hard drive.  In Control panel. System, System protection, Configure, you can set the maximum % that System Restore is allowed to use.  On mine it is set to 1% which is 10 GB.  Yours would need to be set to a bit higher percentage.


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#18
Phlegmbot

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Hi!

 

OK, I did the steps, deleted all but one of the restore points from a few weeks back.

 

I attached an image. The percentage Restore Settings were set to was 50%, however it states that that's only 6.72GB...

 

Also, I'm just now looking at my image, and it seems that it was set to "Turn off system protection" -- which is weird...since it's clearly been saving Restore points. I'll go turn that back on. I changed the percentage to 20% (which it says is a max of 2.69GB).

 

Oooh! And I'm now at 90.8GB! Which is up from last night. I'll continue to monitor it.

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#19
Phlegmbot

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Looks like it's holding steady now, RK! THANKS SO MUCH!


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#20
RKinner

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OK.  Remember to replace the hard drive before it fails.
 
 
You can uninstall or delete any tools we had you download and their logs. 
 
If we ran Combofix:To uninstall combofix, copy the next line:
 

"%userprofile%\Desktop\combofix.exe" /Uninstall
 
Start, All Programs, Accessories then right click on Command Prompt and Run As Administrator.
then right click, Paste, then hit Enter.
 
 
 
OTL has a cleanup tab but DO NOT USE IT!.  There are reports that it leaves the PC unbootable.  Instead just delete  OTL.exe and the folder c:\_OTL.
 
To hide hidden files again:
 
Vista or Win7
 
# Open the Control Panel menu and click Folder Options.
# After the new window appears select the View tab.
# Remove the check in the  checkbox labeled Display the contents of system folders.
# Under the Hidden files and folders section select the radio button labeled Do not Show hidden files and folders.
# Check the checkbox labeled Hide protected operating system files.
# Press the Apply button and then the OK button and exit My Computer. 
 
Also make sure you have the latest versions of any adobe.com products you use like Shockwave, Flash or Acrobat.  
 
Whether you use adobe reader, acrobat or fox-it to read pdf files you need to disable Javascript in the program.  There is an exploit out there now that can use it to get on your PC.  For Adobe Reader:  Start, All Programs, Adobe Reader, Edit, Preferences, Click on Javascript in the left column and uncheck Enable Acrobat Javascript.  OK Close program.  It's the same for Foxit reader except you uncheck Enable Javascript Actions. 
 
Unless you have the latest version of Avast which has its own update checker:  To help keep your programs up-to-date you should download and run the UpdateChecker: 
(You don't need to download Betas and if there is a program you don't use you can just uninstall it rather than update it.  Exception is MSN messenger which appears to be part of Windows.)
If you get a blocked program notice after installing updatechecker then change it to not run at start then manually run it once a week.
 Seems to work best if Firefox is the default browser.  Windows always hides its icon so you need to unhide it.  Click on the up arrow to the left of the clock.  Then click on Customize.  Maximize the window so you can see all of the options.  Scroll Down and find the File Hippo UpdateChecker and change its Behaviors to Show Icon and Notifications.  OK.  When you reboot you should see the icon.  It will take it a minute to finish checking then it will put up a bubble if you need to update something. Click on the bubble and it should open in your browser.  (Seems to work best if it uses Firefox.  If you do not use Firefox as your default browser then right click on the icon and click on Settings. Then on Results.  Change the Open Results in Default Browser to Custom Browser and then select the line that has Firefox.exe in it.  While there, also check Hide Beta Versions.  OK. )  You will see a list of programs that have updates with green down arrows next to them.  You do not need to download any Beta Versions.  There is an option Settings to Hide Beta Versions.  I do not advise updating Windows Messenger unless you really use it so I right click on the Icon and Customize Results then find Microsoft Messenger and change Show All Releases to Hide All Releases.  OK. 
 
 
If Chrome/Firefox is slow loading make sure it only has the current Java add-on.  Then download and run Speedy Fox.
http://www.crystalidea.com/speedyfox .  Close Chrome/Firefox. Hit Optimize.   You can run it any time that Chrome/Firefox seems slow.
 
Be warned:  If you use Limewire, utorrent or any of the other P2P programs you will almost certain be coming back to the Malware Removal forum.  If you must use P2P then submit any files you get to http://virustotal.com before you open them.
 
Due to a recent rise in the number of Crytolocker infections I am now recommending you install:
 
CryptoPrevent
 
 
The free version does not update on its own so you should check for updated versions once in a while.
 
 
 
If you have a router, log on to it today and change the default password!  If using a Wireless router you really should be using encryption on the link.  Use the strongest (newest) encryption method that your router and PC wireless adapter support especially if you own a business.  See http://www.king5.com...-120637284.html and http://www.seattlepi...ted-1344185.php for why encryption is important.  If you don't know how, visit the router maker's website.  They all have detailed step by step instructions or a wizard you can download.
 
Special note on Java.  Old Java versions should be removed after first clearing the Java Cache by following the instructions in:
Then remove the old versions by going to Control Panel, Programs and Features and Uninstall all Java programs which are not Java Version 7 update 25 or better.  These may call themselves: Java Runtime, Runtime Environment, Runtime, JRE, Java Virtual Machine, Virtual Machine, Java VM, JVM, VM, J2RE, J2SE.  Get the latest version from Java.com.  They will usually attempt to foist some garbage like the Ask toolbar, Yahoo toolbar or McAfee Security Scan on you as part of the download.  Just uncheck the garbage before the download (or install) starts.  If you use a 64-bit browser and want the 64-bit version of Java you need to use it to visit java.com.
Due to multiple security problems with Java we are now recommending that it not be installed unless you absolutely know you need it.  IF that is the case then go to Control Panel, Java, Security and slide it up to the highest level.  OK.
 
Make sure Windows Updates is turned and that it works.  Go to Control panel, Windows Updates and see if it works.  
 
 
My help is free but if you wish to show your appreciation, please donate to Kwiaht instead of me. It's a local environmental organization that I volunteer with: http://www.kwiaht.org/donate.htm
(The name means something like "clean place" in one of the local native-American dialects)

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#21
Phlegmbot

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Hey, RK!

 

What's the prognosis on the HD? That is, how long do you think it has before it fails? They're not that expensive, no, but I'd rather hold off a little while longer if I can.

 

(Also, I think it's great you have that link for kwiaht -- I will donate as soon as I'm back in the black!)

 

-PBot

P.S. I went to DL CryptoPrevent free...either he's hidden the free edition pretty well or it's not there. I can't seem to locate it.


Edited by Phlegmbot, 06 March 2015 - 12:35 AM.

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#22
RKinner

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Hard to say.  If you use Speccy (or Speedfan) to monitor the S.M.A.R.T of the hard drive you can probably tell if it is getting worse.  (The errors I flagged earlier will be getting bigger.)  IF the errors stay the same then you might get by without it failing right away.  Do back up any files you can't afford to lose and make sure you have some way of reloading windows if it fails completely.


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#23
Phlegmbot

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OK, so what you flagged earlier read:

 
Attribute name UltraDMA CRC Error Count
Real value 88,951,925
Current 100
Worst 100
Threshold 0
Raw Value 00054D4C75
Status Good
C8
Attribute name Write Error Rate / Multi-Zone Error Rate
Real value 252,120,877
Current 100
Worst 100
Threshold 0
Raw Value 000F070F2D
Status Good
 
I'm assuming that the numbers I bolded are what I should watch out for...b/c, running it again, it looks like they've already increased a bit:
 
Attribute name    UltraDMA CRC Error Count
                                            Real value    90,207,585
                                            Current    100
                                            Worst    100
                                            Threshold    0
                                            Raw Value    0005607561
                                            Status    Good
                                        C8
                                            Attribute name    Write Error Rate / Multi-Zone Error Rate
                                            Real value    254,490,229
                                            Current    100
                                            Worst    100
                                            Threshold    0
                                            Raw Value    000F2B3675
                                            Status    Good
                                     
I'm honestly not really sure I understand the Amazon link -- lots of wires 'n' stuff...confuses my little brain.  But I do already have an HD enclosure (the drive it currently holds is older, smaller) I can use...So, I'll buy a new HD. I was looking at these instructions for Cloning -- do they (including the free program recommended) sit well w/you?
 
I'm looking at this harddrive.
 
My credit card company will owe you a thanks.

Edited by Phlegmbot, 06 March 2015 - 04:07 PM.

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#24
RKinner

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Those are the numbers to watch.  Since they are still climbing it's still dying.  I suppose the change rate will speed up just before the drive dies but it could just fall dead at any moment.

 

The Seagate should do nicely.  Seagate has a program on their website for drive cloning.  http://www.seagate.c...zard-master-dl/

 

The critical thing is to make sure you tell it the correct source and destination drives.  I expect its smart enough that if you got it backwards it might ask you if you were sure but if you tell it yes and it it clones the blank one onto the old drive that would be sad.

 

Remember that the Seagate is a SATA drive.  Older drives were IDE so make sure your enclosure supports SATA and not IDE.


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