[bbymkr27]

My gigabyte GA-Z77-D3H motherboard suddenly died on me and I can't find another one for sale anywhere! I was hoping to get the same board so I wouldn't have to reinstall Windows and lose all my data. Anyone know where I could find one? If not, I'm looking for a replacement that has overclocking abilities, accepts 240 pin ddr3 ram & will fit my i5 2500k lga1155 Sandy Bridge processor.

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    bbymkr27,

 

Which country will you be purchasing the replacement MB, FWIW found a GA-Z77-D3H board here

 

I was hoping to get the same board so I wouldn't have to reinstall Windows and lose all my data.

 

 

You may not need to reinstall Windows or lose your data with any replacement MB be it an ASUS or a Gigabyte brand of board but it would depend on the type of Windows product key you have as to the brand of replacement board most appropriate/less likely to need a new product key, your Gigabyte MB has failed and Microsoft would have no problem with you using any replacement Gigabyte board but they could be funny about you using another brand of board if you have an OEM product key.

 

With any other board than the Gigabyte GA-Z77-D3H upon first boot you would need to uninstall the old MB drivers and install the drivers for the new MB and starting with the chipset drivers first, additionally you may need to reactivate Windows using the Microsoft automated telephone service which takes no time at all.

[phillpower2]

    bbymkr27,

 

Which country will you be purchasing the replacement MB, FWIW found a GA-Z77-D3H board here

 

I was hoping to get the same board so I wouldn't have to reinstall Windows and lose all my data.

 

 

You may not need to reinstall Windows or lose your data with any replacement MB be it an ASUS or a Gigabyte brand of board but it would depend on the type of Windows product key you have as to the brand of replacement board most appropriate/less likely to need a new product key, your Gigabyte MB has failed and Microsoft would have no problem with you using any replacement Gigabyte board but they could be funny about you using another brand of board if you have an OEM product key.

 

With any other board than the Gigabyte GA-Z77-D3H upon first boot you would need to uninstall the old MB drivers and install the drivers for the new MB and starting with the chipset drivers first, additionally you may need to reactivate Windows using the Microsoft automated telephone service which takes no time at all.

[bbymkr27]

    bbymkr27,
 
Which country will you be purchasing the replacement MB, FWIW found a GA-Z77-D3H board here
 

I was hoping to get the same board so I wouldn't have to reinstall Windows and lose all my data.

 
You may not need to reinstall Windows or lose your data with any replacement MB be it an ASUS or a Gigabyte brand of board but it would depend on the type of Windows product key you have as to the brand of replacement board most appropriate/less likely to need a new product key, your Gigabyte MB has failed and Microsoft would have no problem with you using any replacement Gigabyte board but they could be funny about you using another brand of board if you have an OEM product key.
 
With any other board than the Gigabyte GA-Z77-D3H upon first boot you would need to uninstall the old MB drivers and install the drivers for the new MB and starting with the chipset drivers first, additionally you may need to reactivate Windows using the Microsoft automated telephone service which takes no time at all.

I am in the U.S. and the link you provided is the board I want, but they don't ship to the U.S. Any chance you could find one that will ship here? I can't believe you found that one! I know 1155 socket is long dead but I have to try to keep this chugging along for now till I get the money for a new rig! Thanks for any help!

[iammykyl]

Gday.

One refurbished , > http://www.amazon.co...61620534&sr=8-1

[bbymkr27]

Gday.
One refurbished , > http://www.amazon.co...61620534&sr=8-1

That isn't the exact same board as mine is the GA-Z77-D3H, would I be able to boot into Windows with my current configuration?

[iammykyl]

Gday. 

 

The Amazon board is a lesser spec one, your OS should work OK.  compare, > http://www.gigabyte....&pids=4328,4327

Chipset is the same, also sound, main difference appears to be the PCI slot configuration and the SATA ports.

Your MB has a Etron EJ168 chips, 5 ports, >sound< and eSATA.

 

Some things to check.

The I/O shields have different spacing, so contact the vendor to see if one comes with the board, otherwise run without a I/O shield.

The Amazon board is Macro, can your case support it?

Do you have any hardware that could not be supported on the board?

If there is some Gigabyte software on your MB and not on the Amazon one, remove it before dong the change over.

 

I would do a bare bones test with the board, connecting only, CPU, RAM, iGPU, (if possible) OS HDD mouse/keyboard and display.   Leave internet disconnected until the setup is in the case. 

At first Boot, enter UEFI/BIOS,  set time/date, go to exit, load default or safe setting, save and restart. 

[bbymkr27]

I ended up buying a ECS Z77H2-A2X DELUXE v2.0 LGA 1155 Intel Z77 chipset HDMI ATX Motherboard used. Do you think I'll be able to install the new board and boot in Windows? My current board won't even load the BIOS and just does an infinite loop (powers on for maybe 3 seconds shuts off and repeat) so I can't uninstall anything before I put in the new board!

[phillpower2]

Hello bbymkr27,

 

Replacement MB aside for the moment.

 

My current board won't even load the BIOS and just does an infinite loop (powers on for maybe 3 seconds shuts off and repeat)

 

If you have not done so already I would suggest that you determine if it is the Gigabyte MB that is actually at fault, the symptoms that you describe could be the result of a bad power supply, a system short or even a lose memory stick or add on video card, if one of these is the cause it may cause the same problem with the replacement board.

 

Can you tell us the brand and model name or number of the PSU, add on video card and the Ram (including the amount).

 

It would also help if you told us any troubleshooting steps that you may have tried.

 

NB: I am in the UK and iammykyl is in AUS so please allow for time differences that may occur between replies, I for example will be calling it a day shortly.

[bbymkr27]

CPU: Intel i5 2500k
PSU: EVGA 850 G Supernova 850W (2 months old)
Video Card: Gigabyte GeForce GTX 970 Extreme Gaming Edition (2 months old)
Ram: 24GB DDR3 1600 Corsair Vengeance (8x2 & 4x2) the 8GB sticks are 2 months old the 4GB are 3 years old
Cooling: Corsair H100i V2
Case: Corsair Carbide Series 400r

Everything was working fine till I started getting random freezes the other day and would have to shutdown and restart, on the final freeze I received a BSOD (only time I got a blue screen) saying something about "reference pointer error" I only saw it once but remember that. Then it never started again. I can't even get the splash screen. I've reset bios, took video card and ram out, & unplugged hard drive and nothing makes it boot. So I assumed it has to be the motherboard! Anything else I should try? Thanks!

My PSU came with a tester and I just tried it and it powers up and stays on with the tester on.

Edited by bbymkr27, 27 April 2016 - 06:58 PM.

[iammykyl]

Did you just Jumper to clear CMOS or remove/replace the battery?

 

The Null Reference Pointer error message is the Hexadecimal data format of the error message generated. It’s the normal error message format utilized by Microsoft Windows and other Microsoft Windows compatible applications and driver manufacturers.   It is usually a system problem.

 

If you can get into the BIOS?    Check time/date are correct, > change boot priority to DVD/CD first > place a bootable disc in the Optical Drive, > go to the exit menu, Save Settings and exit.

 

If this is not possible.

Switch off the PSU, > hold down the case power on button for 10 seconds.

Leave the PSU plugged in but switched off.  Remove al exterior hardware.

Ground yourself by touching a bare metal part of the case.

Remove the video card and RAM,  > Disconnect all wiring.

Edit here.

Just twigged you have water cooling, so not not practical to remove the board, still do the above steps.

Remove the MB and sit it on a piece of cardboard slightly bigger the the board, or sit it on the MB box.

Touch ground again.

Reconnect the two main power cable to the MB, > connect power/fan to the cooling system > switch on the PSU.

With a small screwdriver, briefly short out the two power on pins on the MB front panel header.

The system should start and keep running.   

Please post back results. 

 

[bbymkr27]

Did you just Jumper to clear CMOS or remove/replace the battery?
 
The Null Reference Pointer error message is the Hexadecimal data format of the error message generated. It’s the normal error message format utilized by Microsoft Windows and other Microsoft Windows compatible applications and driver manufacturers.   It is usually a system problem.
 
If you can get into the BIOS?    Check time/date are correct, > change boot priority to DVD/CD first > place a bootable disc in the Optical Drive, > go to the exit menu, Save Settings and exit.
 
If this is not possible.
Switch off the PSU, > hold down the case power on button for 10 seconds.
Leave the PSU plugged in but switched off.  Remove al exterior hardware.
Ground yourself by touching a bare metal part of the case.
Remove the video card and RAM,  > Disconnect all wiring.
Edit here.
Just twigged you have water cooling, so not not practical to remove the board, still do the above steps.
Remove the MB and sit it on a piece of cardboard slightly bigger the the board, or sit it on the MB box.
Touch ground again.
Reconnect the two main power cable to the MB, > connect power/fan to the cooling system > switch on the PSU.
With a small screwdriver, briefly short out the two power on pins on the MB front panel header.
The system should start and keep running.   
Please post back results. 
 

I tried jumping the bios & replacing the battery, but it didn't help.

I disconnected everything exactly like you said and it is doing exactly the same thing, when jumping the pins it starts up and shuts down like before. So is it safe to assume it is indeed the board? Replacement should be here early next week. Any thoughts on the replacement board? I've never used a ECS board before.

[iammykyl]

Thanks for the update.

 

 

 when jumping the pins it starts up and shuts down like before. So is it safe to assume it is indeed the board?

It may be the MB but could also be faulty CPU (would be tested by installing to a known working board) or overheating.   The CPU thermal protection can activate within a couple of seconds.

Liquid coolers faults can be, dirty fans/rad, dried out thermal paste, loss of liquid, or more conman is an air lock at the pump, even though you can hear/feel it going.

 

I am hoping you have the stock heatsink/fan, or access to any CPU cooler to do a test.

 

Please take nec safety/ESD steps.

Disconnect the pump and fan connectors. > remove the heatsink,

Clean TIM from the CPU and replacement heatsink face using 100% Pure Isopropyl  i.e. > http://www.radiopart...AQ#.VyPnd9R96Cg

Apply new TIM, > install heatsink > connect fan to CPU fan header, > test. 

 

I am sure you will be OK installing the ECS, I can't see it has anything special about the installation. 

Product page, download your manual, please take note about updating the BIOS > http://www.ecs.com.t...enuID=1&LanID=0

 

Edit.

Let us know IF the new MB comes with the I/O shield and Driver CD. 

Edited by iammykyl, 29 April 2016 - 05:21 PM.
further questions

[bbymkr27]

Thanks for the update.

 
 
 when jumping the pins it starts up and shuts down like before. So is it safe to assume it is indeed the board?

It may be the MB but could also be faulty CPU (would be tested by installing to a known working board) or overheating.   The CPU thermal protection can activate within a couple of seconds.
Liquid coolers faults can be, dirty fans/rad, dried out thermal paste, loss of liquid, or more conman is an air lock at the pump, even though you can hear/feel it going.
 
I am hoping you have the stock heatsink/fan, or access to any CPU cooler to do a test.
 
Please take nec safety/ESD steps.
Disconnect the pump and fan connectors. > remove the heatsink,
Clean TIM from the CPU and replacement heatsink face using 100% Pure Isopropyl  i.e. > http://www.radiopart...AQ#.VyPnd9R96Cg
Apply new TIM, > install heatsink > connect fan to CPU fan header, > test. 
 
I am sure you will be OK installing the ECS, I can't see it has anything special about the installation. 
Product page, download your manual, please take note about updating the BIOS > http://www.ecs.com.t...enuID=1&LanID=0
 
Edit.
Let us know IF the new MB comes with the I/O shield and Driver CD.

The replacement motherboard came today. It came with the I/O shield but no driver CD.

I ran into a problem where my COM cable doesn't fit on the motherboard connection! There is 4 pins on the top row and 5 pins on the bottom row the same as my COM cable but where the fifth pin would go is a blank spot and it doesn't line up either way. What should I do?!

[iammykyl]

Gday.

From this page, what port are you referring to and what device are you plugging into it?  > http://www.iqdata.co.za/faq.html

Are you doing a Batre Bones test?

Are you using the Corsair H100i V2, or an air cooler?

[bbymkr27]

Gday.
From this page, what port are you referring to and what device are you plugging into it?  > http://www.iqdata.co.za/faq.html
Are you doing a Batre Bones test?
Are you using the Corsair H100i V2, or an air cooler?

I'm referring to the small 9 pin COM port on the bottom of the motherboard (internal) that's supposed to connect to the front power/reset/USB panel. (On my old Gigabyte board it was labeled COMA) Right now I have it all together and it seems to be working fine with the COM not connected. Is the COM connection needed? My only problem now is that my front USB ports aren't working!

Edited by bbymkr27, 30 April 2016 - 05:27 PM.