[phillpower2]

A very honest and thorough reply #14 from terry and tbh it is what I should have said in my reply #2 

 

Not going to bang on about it as it would be closing the gate after the horse has bolted but five golden rules for a novice to follow before building a new computer are;

 

1: Do plenty of research on the do`s and dont`s.

2: Ensure compatibility for all parts. 

3: Read and understand all installation manuals before starting.

4: Ask for help from someone who has upgrade or build knowledge, this includes posting on a forum such as GTG.

5: Always do a barebones set-up outside of the case on a non conductive surface such as the MB box first, this will identify any item that may have been DOA before it has been placed in the case where an incorrectly placed stand off or an incorrect power connection can cause a short and damage one or more components.

 

Other than what terry has suggested above all that I can suggest to see if some thing else is causing this is 1: confirm that the PSU still works by completely disconnecting it from the MB and then do the paperclip test. 2: remove the RAM and see if that changes the behaviour.

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There is something fundamentally wrong because, just switching on a connected PSU and not touching anything or pressing/touching switches, there should be no noise from the MB.   Some times a PSU fan may pulse for a fraction of a second, then stop.   a MB good night LED may be lit, some video cards may also have a LED lit, both are warning LEDS to show that the MB has current present.

Touching the 2 power on pins is not technically a short.   The screwdriver closes a circuit and a small electrical pulse is sent to power on.  

 

Have you completely disconnected the PSU and tested, as Phillpower2 suggested?

Do you still have the first PSU that you thought was broken?

 

If you want to have another try, do the following and post back.

 

Download the English MB Web user manual and open it. > https://www.msi.com/...tml#down-manual

Go to page #4, click the YouTube link , (top left) and watch Installing a Processor

Are you confident you installed the CPU correctly?

 

You used the Evo Cooler.   Please confirm.

Did you apply Thermal Paste as per the instructions before mounting heatsink?

Did you connect the CPU fan plug to the correct header on the board?   user manual page #25 CPUFAN1 (top/middle of the board, just to the left of the DIMM slots.) 

MB speaker, page #35, JFP2.   If the plug has 4 holes with 2 wires, (one at each end) ensure the + sign on the plug matches the + sign printed on the board.

 

If you want to go further, please don't do anything else, just give the info I requested. 

[iammykyl]

There is something fundamentally wrong because, just switching on a connected PSU and not touching anything or pressing/touching switches, there should be no noise from the MB.   Some times a PSU fan may pulse for a fraction of a second, then stop.   a MB good night LED may be lit, some video cards may also have a LED lit, both are warning LEDS to show that the MB has current present.

Touching the 2 power on pins is not technically a short.   The screwdriver closes a circuit and a small electrical pulse is sent to power on.  

 

Have you completely disconnected the PSU and tested, as Phillpower2 suggested?

Do you still have the first PSU that you thought was broken?

 

If you want to have another try, do the following and post back.

 

Download the English MB Web user manual and open it. > https://www.msi.com/...tml#down-manual

Go to page #4, click the YouTube link , (top left) and watch Installing a Processor

Are you confident you installed the CPU correctly?

 

You used the Evo Cooler.   Please confirm.

Did you apply Thermal Paste as per the instructions before mounting heatsink?

Did you connect the CPU fan plug to the correct header on the board?   user manual page #25 CPUFAN1 (top/middle of the board, just to the left of the DIMM slots.) 

MB speaker, page #35, JFP2.   If the plug has 4 holes with 2 wires, (one at each end) ensure the + sign on the plug matches the + sign printed on the board.

 

If you want to go further, please don't do anything else, just give the info I requested. 

[DeGuy]

I got the whole list of items from a technician so they all are compatible. I did everything you guys are saying and nothing is happening. I hate how screwed up this can get. I can't tell where the [bleep] the problem is. The noise is DEFINITELY coming from the power supply. I have no idea why the [bleep] its not running or what I did. The speaker doesn't work at all, never did. There's also no point to read a manual about how to put something in rather than fix it. Even though it did teach me that you do need to put ram in the dimm2 slot first, but that's it. I'm thinking about just going to geek squad because there could be a thousand problems with a power supply but it's hard to guess from this text because you can't see it or hear it.

[terry1966]

if both power supplies do not buzz when tested (not connected to the motherboard in anyway) then the buzz is caused by a short in the motherboard somewhere.

 

yes most definitely i recommend taking everything to geek squad and letting them sort things out for you, it may be they find the first motherboard and second cpu you bought is the combo that will work or first cpu and last motherboard anyway the more parts you take the more chance they have of getting a working pc for you without the need to buy anything else, but if i was you i'd be prepared to fork out for another motherboard and cpu. sorry i can't really offer you any better advice.

 

[DeGuy]

Motherboard was faulty. Returning it for a new one.

[terry1966]

before you do anything with the new motherboard and that gets broken, try and find out why your breaking them at such a rate in the first place.

if you can't figure out why your breaking them then i strongly suggest taking the new motherboard and all parts to geek squad and let them build it for you.

 

for example do you fit them into the case to test first and find things don't work, if so then you may have a standoff (what you screw the motherboard onto.) in the wrong place that is shorting them out and causing failure. there should only be standoffs in the exact same place where the motherboard holes are and no extra's anywhere behind the motherboard. if there are extras unscrew them from the case.

 

also when attaching the heatsink to the cpu, don't over tighten it, also and this is important, don't fully tighten down 1 corner then move onto the next, what you need to do is slowly tighten them down at alternating corners keeping an even pressure on the cpu, so loosely tighten one corner move diagonally across and loosely tighten down that corner and do the same for last two corners then slowly tighten them in an alternating diagonal pattern until the heatsink is firmly attached but not over tightened.

 

can't advise you strongly enough to read the motherboard manual (don't care what you know or think you know, still read it, i still always do.) and follow what it says to make sure all parts are fitted in correct orientation, especially the cpu.

 

lastly do the build and test with minimum parts outside the case first to make sure things work before installing it into the case and completing the build.

 

good luck.

 

Edited by terry1966, 31 May 2016 - 02:28 PM.

[iammykyl]

Gday.

Please update your Topic.   If the issue is fixed, let us know how you did it, then select  a Marked Solved.   If you still need help, let us know.

 

Thanks.

[DeGuy]

Best Answer

Power supply and new CPU were faulty. It's getting looked at. So I'm marking it as solved

[iammykyl]

Thank's DeGuy for the update, much appreciated  .

If you still get problems, to get the best response, please start a new Topic,