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New flight sim Build input (Solved)


Best Answer sierrahotel , 14 January 2017 - 11:18 AM

I have not heard from the IT guy but I don't anticipate there being an issue. I am happy with the PC's performance. I have found that my speakers seem to be working properly with the new build... Go to the full post »


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#1
sierrahotel

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I just checked my Win 7 product ID and it shows OEM. :bashhead:

 

So I have to get a new OS to work with my new MB. Given the option I'd like to go with Win 10 because it will support DirectX 12. I have already installed Win 7 on the SSD (new) when I was "upgrading" my old pc which subsequently turned into a new build. See links here and here. So I am guessing that means formatting the SSD.

 

When it comes to choosing between Win 10 Home and Pro, which is the best one to go with? I know it depends on what you'll be using the PC for and much of the added benefits I may not use given it is a flight sim build primarily. I did happen to watch a video that stated the Home edition uses 128GB of ram and the Pro 2TB. Can anyone explain this more clearly to me?

 

As for the new parts:

 

i5-6600K 3.50GHz + CM Hyper 212 EVO fan

ASUS Z170-A ATX LGA1151 Skylake DDR4

EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 SC Gaming ACX 3.0 Black Edition 8GB

G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 16GB (2x8GB) DDR4

SSD Radeon R3 Series (R3SL240G)

EVGA SuperNOVA 850 G2 220-G2-0850-XR 80+ GOLD 850W

 

plus a couple of cooling fans

 

Old parts:

 

Seagate 2TB Serial ATA HD 7200/64MB/SATA-6G


Edited by sierrahotel, 02 January 2017 - 09:14 PM.

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#2
RKinner

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I don't see anything in Pro that you would need on a gaming computer.  Just more proceses to eat up CPU time.

 

As for the maximum RAM 128 GB vs 2 TB.  Your motherboard says it can take a maximum of 64 GB so that's not very important.

 

https://ark.intel.co...-up-to-3_90-GHz

 

Spend the difference on a new hard drive from Western Digital Black.  Seagates just don't hold up.

 

https://ark.intel.co...-up-to-3_90-GHz


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#3
sierrahotel

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Interesting about the HDD. This one here looks good. How much of a difference is there over the blue version? I searched around and the consensus is mixed. I saw a number of reviews stating that the Blue is good enough for gaming and is in fact faster than the Black which should be used for unusual installations in vibration heavy rigs. I also saw just as many reviews that stated the Black should be used for gaming and the Blue was for everyday use. Notice that I am only looking at getting 1TB. The 2TB Seagate I have is really overkill. I plan to run DCS World and X-Plane 11. That's about it.

 

 

I am going to sell some of my old parts on ebay. You can't get a whole lot for them but anything is better than nothing. Since I now know that my Win 7 version is an OEM, would this make selling it an issue? Would I have to sell it with the motherboard?


Edited by sierrahotel, 03 January 2017 - 11:25 AM.

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#4
RKinner

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Main difference is in how long they last which is reflected in the warranty.  Blue= 2 yr, Black=5 yr.  The black is available on Amazon right now from PCH for $78.78 with FREE Shipping

 

I'm not so sure it matters that it is an OEM.  I'd try it anyway before buying Win 10.  Even if the license doesn't work you have 30 days before it turns into a pumpkin.  You can even try calling MS and tell them the Mobo failed on you and you just replaced it.  Sometimes they will just wave their magic wand and you are back in business.

 

As far as selling it goes I doubt anyone would want it if it's been used and registered with MS.


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#5
sierrahotel

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That's $78 USD not CAD.

 

I may be able to get a copy of Win 10 so we'll see. DirectX 12 compatibility has made me want the 10. As for the HDD, I think I'll pick the black up. The 5yr warranty being the deciding factor.


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#6
iammykyl

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Gday sierrahotel.

Sell you MB/CPU/Driver disk together with the W7 disk.   The buyer would use their own drive, clean install windows and activate, it would be the same as if you had done it yourself as the licence /activation is tied the MB and not any personal info.   

So I am guessing that means formatting the SSD.

No.  If you are going to try reusing W7, it needs a clean install as Device Manager has the old MB drivers/setup installed.   During the install, you need to delete all the partitions on the drive so you are left with unallocated space, then proceed as the first time you used the SSD.


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#7
sierrahotel

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Ok sell those components together. Makes sense. As for the SSD, I will be installing Win 10 home 64bit.

 

Just a thought. Instead of a new HDD, why not another SSD? I'd have one 240GB SSD for the OS and DCS World. The second 240GB SSD would be for X-Plane 11.  I don't see either flight sim needing more than 240GB. I could still use the Seagate if need be for regular storage like music, videos and pictures. Perhaps get the WD Blue at a later date if I really needed it.

 

Edit:

 

This is the route I have taken. DC actually had the SSD on sale with free s&h.


Edited by sierrahotel, 04 January 2017 - 09:58 AM.

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#8
iammykyl

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A dedicated SSD for the simulator sounds good.   What would be the total size of the programs + plugins?

Have you tried the X Plane Demo? > http://www.x-plane.com/desktop/try-it/

 

Here is a complete guide on OS install/optimization on SSD, I stick with the GPT install, page #3, > http://www.tweaktown...uide/index.html

 

Just noticed your edit, I would use the Evo for the OS and the AMD for the sim. 


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#9
sierrahotel

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I have not tried the demo. With the way my pc was acting before the new build and the lower specs I didn't see a reason too. It's still in the beta version right now.

If I recall correctly from a sim forum, DCS ranges from 18 to 38 GB depending on how many modules you own. For arguments sake, I figured 50gb with DCS World 2.5 plus all modules. I don't have every module, nor do I want them all. As for X-Plane 11, The size is determined by how much scenery/locations you want to use. I read that it's around 80gb at the high end.

EVO vs AMD. I came across userbenchmark after I had purchased the AMD. It's not rated as high as the EVO. Best to use the EVO for the OS. Before I knew that I would need a new OS, I installed Windows 7 on the AMD SSD. Since the AMD is no longer in an FOB state, do I have to secure erase it like on page 2 of tweaktown?

Edited by sierrahotel, 05 January 2017 - 11:25 PM.

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#10
iammykyl

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Samsung SSDs are what I use, believe they are still the market leaders.

You will need to prepare the AMD SSD before you use it.   As far as I understand, deleting the partitions only removes the markers, (beginning/end) Data remains.   Using Diskpart, writes 0s/1s, so, Backup any Data you want and after your new build is up and running, connect the AMD SSD, run Secure Erase then use it for your sim.   Decide then what you want to do with the existing HDD.

 

Tips.

Include a internal mini MB speaker, i.e. > https://www.amazon.c...r/dp/B002W4M0DW   Read your manual about UEFI/BIOS error codes.

You may wish to try my method to bench build and test major parts before installing in the case.

Install the new I/O shield, > confirm standoffs match the screw holes in the MB, no extra ones, > install the PSU,

Place the MB on the empty MB box, > install the CPU, > apply TIM, > install cooler, >  connect cooler fan, > connect two main power cables, > connect MB speaker, > Test.

PSU fan starts, (may stop again if thermally controlled) >  CPU fan starts and keeps going, > speaker beeps, (3 short ones??) indicates no RAM.

Power off.

Install the RAM, > Test.

The Beep code should change, indicating no drive/display.   If still the original beep code, troubleshooting is needed.

Power off.

Disconnect cables, > install MB, > proceed with build. 


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#11
oneblackened

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My first thought is your power supply is probably overkill. You'd be well served by a SuperNova G2 650w. 

Other than that, OP - build looks good! As mentioned earlier, I'd probably get a WD Black HDD. If you have the option, an NVMe SSD is ludicrously fast (I have a cheap Intel one which does 1500MB/s + Sequential Read/500MB/s Sequential Write and 128K IO/s random read/write). My build (not dissimilar, but no GPU and an i7-6700K instead of an i5-6600K) runs very, very fast. 


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#12
sierrahotel

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Samsung SSDs are what I use, believe they are still the market leaders.

You will need to prepare the AMD SSD before you use it.   As far as I understand, deleting the partitions only removes the markers, (beginning/end) Data remains.   Using Diskpart, writes 0s/1s, so, Backup any Data you want and after your new build is up and running, connect the AMD SSD, run Secure Erase then use it for your sim.   Decide then what you want to do with the existing HDD.

 

Tips.

Include a internal mini MB speaker, i.e. > https://www.amazon.c...r/dp/B002W4M0DW   Read your manual about UEFI/BIOS error codes.

You may wish to try my method to bench build and test major parts before installing in the case.

Install the new I/O shield, > confirm standoffs match the screw holes in the MB, no extra ones, > install the PSU,

Place the MB on the empty MB box, > install the CPU, > apply TIM, > install cooler, >  connect cooler fan, > connect two main power cables, > connect MB speaker, > Test.

PSU fan starts, (may stop again if thermally controlled) >  CPU fan starts and keeps going, > speaker beeps, (3 short ones??) indicates no RAM.

Power off.

Install the RAM, > Test.

The Beep code should change, indicating no drive/display.   If still the original beep code, troubleshooting is needed.

Power off.

Disconnect cables, > install MB, > proceed with build. 

 

So the build is complete. My cousin came over who has built a few PC's and lent a hand. He tested the components just as you had suggested. I did use the Samsung SSD for the OS and I believe we quick formatted the AMD SSD or something along these lines. I was unaware initially that secure erase was for a drive you no longer will be using. This got me thinking about the HDD. I won't be using it and I want to securely erase it so that the use of a recovery program will turn up zilch. Can anyone recommend a good freeware program? I came across this page that shows 42 freeware data destruction programs. That is a heck of a lot.


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#13
sierrahotel

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My first thought is your power supply is probably overkill. You'd be well served by a SuperNova G2 650w. 

Other than that, OP - build looks good! As mentioned earlier, I'd probably get a WD Black HDD. If you have the option, an NVMe SSD is ludicrously fast (I have a cheap Intel one which does 1500MB/s + Sequential Read/500MB/s Sequential Write and 128K IO/s random read/write). My build (not dissimilar, but no GPU and an i7-6700K instead of an i5-6600K) runs very, very fast. 

 

Overkill eh? As long as it doesn't hurt my PC in any way to have more power, I'm okay with it. The price was too good to pass up when I purchased it. As for the WD HDD, I think I'll be fine for the time being. I do have an ASUS laptop with an i7 which I use for general stuff. There are no sims or games on it. This PC is strictly for flight simulation. I first built this PC with the old components in 2012 for the same purpose. I've built my own PVC flight sim to place my HOTAS (X-55) on and I have Saitek's pedals, control column and throttle quadrant. I also use TrackIR 5 and will probably take advantage of the VR capability in the future. At the time I was using DCS and FSX. FSX was helpful during flight training but it does have it's limitations. Trying to keep both the PC and laptop up to date with each other proved futile, especially when for 2.5 years I was away from the PC but had the laptop with me. The NVMe SSD sounds awesome though. I'd consider picking it up or a 1-2TB SSD if the prices drop in say a year or two. Although I usually use a headset, I am debating picking up a new set of speakers. Right now I have the logitech LS21 and they have always been finicky. If you use the physical volume knob, the sound will cut in and out. Sometimes the sound will only emit from one speaker.


Edited by sierrahotel, 08 January 2017 - 09:17 PM.

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#14
iammykyl

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Thanks for the update sierrahotel.   Good to hear the build went without any trauma.   Your sim set up sound awesome, no wonder you wanted it's own dedicated drive.   

My choice would be DBAN, as a precaution, I would disconnect  both SSDs, then no mistakes can be made erasing the wrong disk.

https://www.lifewire...ng-dban-2619148

 

Tip.

When you have both the OS and sim disks set up as you want, download and run Macrium Reflect.   Create Rescue media, then image both drives.

Free edition. > http://www.macrium.c...eflectfree.aspx


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#15
sierrahotel

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DBAN does not appear to be working for me. I followed the directions but I keep getting the following response:

 

cat: can't open '/proc/cmdline': No such file or directory

 

I had a look around and some people thought it could be a bad iso. They suggested downloading it again and burning it to a new disk. I tried this and I got the same result. Basically I get to the main blue screen. After that I can either type in autonuke or press F3. When I type autonuke I get the answer above. Pressing F3 takes me to the options page displaying all the ways to erase the HDD like dodshort etc... At this page I type in the one I choose. I choose dodshort based on the pages recommendations and because it is suppose to be the same as autonuke. I get the same response as above. Each time I get that response I am unable to turn off the PC with the front button. I have to switch it off at the power source.

 

Some people are also saying it's all Microsoft's fault that DBAN does not work. Whatever the case, it does not work for me. I'm looking for a work around but I may have to use a different program.

 

I came across this:

 

DBAN is only a 32-bit BIOS boot disk.
DBAN will more than likely not be updated to support UEFI because it is basically adware for Blancco.

First of all, make sure you have created the reinstallation media or imaged the recovery partition, because if you don't DBAN will permanently destroy it.
Next, enable legacy boot (it may be called CSM) in your CMOS settings.
Finally, use legacy boot to run DBAN. (You remembered to make your recovery disks, right?)

 

I also came across someone stating UEFI needs to be disabled in the BIOS.

 

Edit:

 

I have given the HDD to an IT guy I know who will be wiping it clean.

 

 


Edited by sierrahotel, 09 January 2017 - 01:49 PM.

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