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Wireless keyboard stopped working

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That did it.  The new account has it working.


Now I just need to move everything from the first login to the second one.






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Time to clean up:
If we installed Speccy it needs to be uninstalled.  Process Explorer, VEW, AdwCleaner, JRT  and their logs and Speccy's log can just be deleted.
Also make sure you have the latest versions of any adobe.com products you use like Shockwave, Flash or Acrobat.  Flash is now the most malware targeted program so it must be kept up to date.  Be careful with Adobe.  They are fond of offering optional downloads like yahoo or Ask toolbars or that worthless McAfee Security Scan.  Go slow and uncheck the optional stuff.
Whether you use adobe reader, acrobat or fox-it to read pdf files you need to disable Javascript in the program.  There is an exploit out there now that can use it to get on your PC.  For Adobe Reader:  Start, All Programs, Adobe Reader, Edit, Preferences, Click on Javascript in the left column and uncheck Enable Acrobat Javascript.  OK Close program.  It's the same for Foxit reader except you uncheck Enable Javascript Actions. 
If you use Chrome/Firefox/Safari then get the Ublock Origin add-on from:  https://www.ublock.org/
Doesn't work on IE so for IE get the AdBlock Plus program.  Go to adblockplus.org
If Chrome/Firefox is slow loading make sure it only has the current Java add-on.  Then download and run Speedy Fox.
http://www.crystalidea.com/speedyfox.  Close Chrome/Firefox/Skpe. Hit Optimize.   You can run it any time that Chrome/Firefox seems slow starting..
To prevent a relatively new phishing attack:  In Firefox, type:
in the URL box and hit Enter.  You should get a new page of options (if you get a notice about voiding the warranty just cancel the warning).  In the Search box put in 
You should only get one option:
We want it to say True but by default it is False so double click on it to toggle from False to True.
Close and restart firefox.
To test it you can go to:
If the value is false you will see https://www.apple.cominstead of the correct value
If you are a Facebook user get the FB Purity extension for your browser:
This will stop all of the suggested pages and ads so that Facebook loads much quicker.
Be warned:  If you use Limewire, utorrent or any of the other P2P programs you will probably be coming back to the Malware Removal forum.  If you must use P2P then submit any files you get to http://virustotal.combeforeyou open them.
Due to a recent rise in the number of Crytolocker infections I am now recommending you install:
The free version does not update on its own so you should check for updated versions once in a while. When you install it the default is NONE which is kind of worthless so change it to Standard or default. If you have problems after installing CryptoPrevent you can just uninstall it.
If you have a router, log on to it today and change the default password!  If using a Wireless router you really should be using encryption on the link.  Use the strongest (newest) encryption method that your router and PC wireless adapter support especially if you own a business.  See http://www.king5.com...0637284.htmlandhttp://www.seattlepi...ted-1344185.php for why encryption is important.  If you don't know how, visit the router maker's website.  They all have detailed step by step instructions or a wizard you can download.
Special note on Java.  Old Java versions should be removed after first clearing the Java Cache by following the instructions in:
Then remove the old versions by going to Control Panel, Programs and Features and Uninstall all Java programs which are not Java Version 7 update 25 or better.  These may call themselves: Java Runtime, Runtime Environment, Runtime, JRE, Java Virtual Machine, Virtual Machine, Java VM, JVM, VM, J2RE, J2SE.  Get the latest version from Java.com.  They will usually attempt to foist some garbage like the Ask toolbar, Yahoo toolbar or McAfee Security Scan on you as part of the download.  Just uncheck the garbage before the download (or install) starts.  If you use a 64-bit browser and want the 64-bit version of Java you need to use it to visit java.com.
Due to multiple security problems with Java we are now recommending that it not be installed unless you absolutely know you need it.  IF that is the case then go to Control Panel, Java, Security and slide it up to the highest level.  OK.
My help is free but if you wish to show your appreciation, please donate to Kwiaht instead of me. It's an Orcas Island environmental organization that I volunteered with: http://www.kwiaht.org/donate.htm
(The name means something like "clean place" in one of the local native-American dialects)

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Suraj Pateil

Suraj Pateil

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I've been trying to find a solution to this frustrating issue for several months. Maybe you guys can help. Anyway... here's my sad story:

I was using a self-built machine. Suddenly, about 3 months ago, random USB device disconnect-like sounds started occurring (sometimes 3x in a row, other times not for several hours) - I disabled all system sounds and it still continued, even though I didn't notice any USB hardware blips). Two months ago, I bought the new Intel NUC7i7BNH, installed Windows 10, and within a few hours the issue suddenly started all over again.

I've recorded the sound. Here's the link of bluetooth speakers and further I have replaced or swapped out literally all my hardware, disabled all Windows power-saving settings, turned off ALL Windows system sounds, tested the same configuration on 3 different computers (1 running Win 10, the others Win 7), been on several computer help forums, pretty much eliminated every computer-related fix Google (and several computer advisers) could suggest including testing all USBs and running USBDeview (with no hits) - and the same "disconnect" sound (or whatever it is) continues.

It's definitely coming through the speakers b/c I can lower the volume. I get no hardware hiccops. Usually, the sound is the 2 tone Downward disconnect sound, but sometimes it just seems like 1 tone. The randomness is what is really frustrating. For instance it was silent all yesterday morning, then 3 times in a half-hour, then nothing until this morning - just once - and then suddenly nearly a dozen times in 10 minutes. There is just no pattern - no particular change in electrical usage - and the sound cannot be controlled or even disabled in Windows. The events viewer never shows anything that corresponds to the sounds.

One hypothesis was that it could be electrical in nature. I tested all the sockets on the circuit (tested fine) and even replaced them. No change. I thought that maybe it could be a firewall issue in my router (notifications???) and disabled it. No change. Someone thought it might be an alert from the router and sent packets to the router to try to replicate the sound. Nothing.

To summarize... I'm looking for something that (a) sounds like the above; (b) comes through the speakers (b/c I can lower the volume on it), is totally independent of anything I may be doing (or not doing anything) at the time; © and is completely random.

The NUC itself is running great... and I would just like to figure out WHAT the sound is, WHERE it's coming from, and HOW to disable it.

*I would appreciate ANY direction as this has been very frustrating. Thanks!

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Please start your own topic.

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