[steyr223]

When I said no hury I really did mean it, but i've now exausted all avenues
I trully believe it's a bad mother board

Woops sorry !!!!
I actually fixed my posted problem with the title

" nvmcp.sys blue screen, no hurry been at it for a month"

It was my sound card on the motherboard
I just reinstalled my catalina sound card and no more blue screen error

DRIVER_IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL

but,


The reason I took it out was due to the blue screen error

Internal_power_problem

and I still get this any time I have to shut the computer down.
For instance:
My air conditioner will kick on, my foot hits the power button,
I've dropped the KB, many reasons, but all with a sudden power failer

I restart after draining all capacitors (unplug,hold keys down, hold button down
etc...) It will blue screen over and over again untill I remove all usb devices
or maybe I should say the right usb device

NOTE: unplug saitek x45 joystick >computer boots
nextime unplug momo logitech wheel and pedals >computer boots
next time unplug mx1000 laser mouse > computer boots
......you get the idea it's never the same device (it almost feels like there's to many devices
anyways I finally realized just to unplug all usb and it comes up fine

If you look at my hj this with the title above I describe my system in detail

thanks
Oh it has been almost 3 weeks since I posted it
you guys must be slammed I feel your pain

thanks again steyr223

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what is the power output on the power supply? 250 watts? 300 watts?

Every device requires a certain amount of juice and it sounds like you've exceed the capacity of your's

or, you're drawing too much power on a circuit....I can tell you for certain that sharing a circuit with an airconditioner or refrigerator is a VERY BAD idea. the on and off nature of these devices are a quick way to a fast death for a power supply

[gerryf]

what is the power output on the power supply? 250 watts? 300 watts?

Every device requires a certain amount of juice and it sounds like you've exceed the capacity of your's

or, you're drawing too much power on a circuit....I can tell you for certain that sharing a circuit with an airconditioner or refrigerator is a VERY BAD idea. the on and off nature of these devices are a quick way to a fast death for a power supply

[steyr223]

yes i know the ac will get it's own soon but this was going on long befor i got the ac
in fact since the day i bought the parts and put it together
dfi nf3250gb>amd 3200>2x512 ddr256MB nvidia video>catalina sound>5 fans>sony 8xdvdr/w>toshiba4xdvdr/w>300GB ide>160 GB 10,000rpm sata>logitech momo wheel and pedals>saitek x45 joy and flight stick>hp deskjet>saitek gamers keyboard>ir hat tracker(usb)>voice buddy speechrecognition(usb,mic,head)edimantional 3d glassses(usb)5.1 midland surround,scanner
450 w power supply
the only reason i mentioned all the above is to ask u, while on the subject if 450w could handle most of it at the same time (another question no one has been able to answer)(not here on other forms)
for the purpose of this discussion consider at the most only the wheel,joystick,kb and printer plugged in, tho
the problem has occured with only the keyboard and mouse plugged in

thank for getting back so quick
steyr223

[Jack123]

Staff is correct about your power line & Power Supply. . . .

About USB devices . . . . your USB ports are clamped at 0.5 amps . . .

most devices only draw 100 to 250 mamps but Iomeg Zip and scanners will draw the 500 mamps & shut down . . . .

When a USB shuts down or is disconnected "HOT" it will cause problems.

Microsoft approved drivers have a disconnect permission . . . and when ejecting disks from a USB drive . . . .use the software disconnect ; not the manual push eject button. . . .

If Power Supply is not large enough . . . .it will cause USB disconnects

Sounds as if PS is not correct . . . but you may want to use
A UPS (Uninterupable Power Supply) with AVR (Automatic Voltage Regulation) somewhere around 1000 Volt amps

They are somewhat expensive, but there are some good deals

Also if you are having USB problems check out USB MAN Web site . . .

Also use USB Hubs with external power to relieve power draw from PC Power supply & for isolation. . . .use one that can handle 2.5 amps & only shuts downs only the faulty port . . . not all

How old is computer? What is wattage of PS? How many USB devices?

You can use device manager to check current draw on each USB device.

Passing on General Info on USB
Jack123

[admin]

I once had a system that behaved similarly. For me the joystick was almost always the culprit. In that case it did turn out to be a bad motherboard.

If your power supply is a generic 450W, consider upgrading it. Modern systems use a LOT of power, and unfortunately the Wattage rating is pretty much useless. You have to look pretty close to find the important specs, like amps supplied to each rail. I know when building a system, a power supply seems like an easy place to cut corners. Why spend $75 on a 350W, when you can buy a 450W for under $20? Well, there are major differences, so you 'get what you pay for'.

[Johanna]

If you are experiencing "brown outs", you may have already fried the mobo inadvertently. If you suspect that may be possible, you can check by removing and sniffing it (I know, really high tech, huh?) and when you find the scorch odor, look carefully. I cannot stress how important it is to use a UPS (Uniterruptible Power Supply) with a computer you care about. The better ones level out any surges or drops in power, and will shut down your system in an orderly way in the event of a power outage. You also need a box (mine is from APC) that you can plug your telephone and cable lines into BEFORE they plug into your computer. My ISP swore that lightning couldn't travel through the cable line, but they were wrong, and they replaced my modem and motherboard when I brought them the hardware and made them smell it. LOL

Johanna

[admin]

My ISP swore that lightning couldn't travel through the cable line, but they were wrong, and they replaced my modem and motherboard when I brought them the hardware and made them smell it.

The cable to my house was hit by lightning 3 summers ago. It was pretty evident because of the exploded cable in my back yard, and the big black blast marks on the cable junction box. I was watching TV and saw the huge sparks behind it before I heard the crack of thunder. I lost ~$10K in electronics. Amazingly, my computer came through pretty much unscathed (thanks to a UPC). Pretty much every other TV, VCR, DVD, fax, phone, and even my garage door opener was fried. I had an LCD projector connected to the cable box with a 25' S-video card, and that got zapped beyond repair too.

My household insurance covered the loss (less deductible), and the cable company admitted the cable hadn't been grounded correctly.

[steyr223]

hello
sorry I took so long to reply but I'm not used to answers on this subject (especially so quickly)

motherboard not burnt
a brownout? is that when the system starts shutting specific areas down that are drawing power to apply some where more important

i will buy the ps that has the power cords that connect to your devices on one end and the ps itself on the other end both ends can be unplugged(sorry dont remember name) 500 watts is that a good one

I really liked what admin said about the more expensive, less wattage
power supply
I thought, [bleep] my 300w lasted from a 233mhz all the way to a 1.8ghz
never had to worry about it

anyways nobody has said anything about my hjthis post,did anyone look at it I am curious what you will find

thanks again steyr223 @ steyr223oversiganyday.net

[steyr223]

]i was reading the other posts and came accross
a monitoring app

i have no idea what sensers its looking for and now it's not the right one
for my board
i can tell you my fans (except the cpu fan)are direct and not plugged to mb
i thought maybe this would help

it's just an image i did with a screen shot with the monitor running
i really dont know if its even right but the 2nd row last two have some
interesting numbers

thanks steyr223

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