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PC Problems - CPU Working but No Signal Received by Moniter


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#1
Bolt- 10

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:help: Ok I am feeling really stupid for doing what I have done & I ask you be gentle with me :help:


The Problem My PC is running but my moniter displays a messgae ' NO Signal Received'
I have definatly reattached all the wire's in the correct order etc. but to no avail


The Reason- Perhaps

My PC has been running very slowly recently & also freezing for no apparent reason

I got some advice from a guy who works within my group of companys that part of the problem may be that dust could be causing my PC to freeze to save it overheating & that I would be best clearing out the dust

So off I went with a screwdriver & the Dyson

I removed the side panal of the CPU, I cant stress how carefull I was, got the Dyson out & removed all the dust from the grill, fan etc.

The only componet I touched was the Fan itself, I removed it from its housing (I did not remove any wires at all) vaccumed it & placed the Fan back in place & locked the clips down, replaced the side panel & re-attached all the leads & ended up with the problem as mentioned above

I am now without a home PC & have to do this plea from work

Thanks for you help in advance

ps - I which I found this site 2 days ago :whistling:

:blink:

Edited by Bolt- 10, 07 February 2007 - 05:34 AM.

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#2
pip22

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I'll have to assume your PC uses a removable PCI or AGP graphics card.

Go back inside as carefully as you did last time, with the mains plug pulled from the socket.. Touch the bare metal frame first to discharge any static from your body. Now check that the graphics card is firmly seated in the slot. To make really sure, dosconnect the vga cable from it, unscrew the little backplate screw, then gently but firmly remove the card. Now replace it, again gently but firmly, making sure one end is not sticking up up higher than the other.

Replace the backplate screw, replace the case cover, firmly plug in the vga cable. Restore the power and boot up.

If still no signal, I fear you may need to get a new graphics card.

However, if the graphics card you hook up to is integrated on to the motherboard (not removable) then obviously it's unlikely to be loose, but it wouldn't hurt to check the wires going to it. Again, if still no signal even though all the wires look okay, you'll have to fit a new graphics card into a spare PC1 or AGP slot, and disable the on-board one in the BIOS settings.

Edited by pip22, 07 February 2007 - 09:17 AM.

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#3
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WOOOOOOW My ears are bleeding

I will open her up tonight & check that all the units are flush & connected, hopefully it will be easy as I am a bit dim with these items

Thanks for your help

Away to get some tissue for my ears :whistling:
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#4
Bolt- 10

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OK so just had a word with an IT guy from a company close by me, he has had a quick look & it seems that the innocent removal of the fan it what has casued my problems, the fact that the processor is glued to the bottom of it & the pins that connect the processor to its housing have been bent & he beleives that that is the route of the problem

SOLOUTION

Nip up to closet PC type shop & buy a new Processor, fit the processor, glue on the fan.

Does that sound a viable option

:whistling:

PS FYI The graphics card is integrated

Edited by Bolt- 10, 08 February 2007 - 03:51 AM.

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#5
pip22

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Well that's a first for me, Id never have guessed it. I assumed only your monitor didn't work. must have affected more than your monitor if the CPU is stuffed. Mind you, I did kinda think it strange you removing the fan to do a clean up job -- a bit too extreme I thought!

No problem fitting a new one. problem will be finding a compatible replacement if the one you damaged is not new or fairly new. Do not use glue between the CPU and fan/heatsink! Use thermal pads or thermal paste. This ensures that heat generated by the CPU gets conducted to the heatsink as efficiently as possible.
Got this from a PC repair website:

"Probably the next most important thing is the way the heatsink is attached to the processor. You may find that attaching your heatsink "bare" to the processor is not very effective, because either the processor or heatsink is not perfectly flat and not making contact all over. Therefore, it is normally better to use some kind of thermal transfer substance between the heatsink and the processor. However, there are different types: the "pad" type ones that most PC manufacturers use are nice and clean (which is why they are used in mass production) but are not as effective as the runny, messy ones you can buy from PC shops. It usually has the appearance of a sort-of cross between toothpaste and bicycle grease. This should be smeared thinly across the whole surface of the back of the heatsink. If you replace a "pad" compound with the messy stuff you should find your CPU temperature drop quite considerably: 5, 10 or even 15ºC. Only use a very thin layer of compound: remember it is only to fill the gaps where the heatsink is not touching the processor, to conduct heat from the processor to the heatsink".

Edited by pip22, 08 February 2007 - 12:24 PM.

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#6
The Skeptic

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If some pins are bent you can try to straighten them very carefully with a thin screw driver and reinstall the cpu. I have done this a number of times. If a pin gets broken then you must replace the cpu. Please note:

1: The cpu can be placed in the socket in one direction only. Usually, when you look at the pin-side of the cpu one or two corners look as if they are triangled. These should be carefully alligned with the correct corners on the socket.

2: Make sure the locking lever is pulled all the way up.

3: Never force the cpu into the socket. Do this carefully and gently. If you need to force it then either a pin is still bent or the cpu is misaligned with the socket. After installation lower the locking lever all the way down until it is locked in place.

4: The thermal paste that was mentioned before: This is a must. You have to clean carefully the top of the cpu and the bottom of the heatsink. Avoid scratching them. Place the cpu in the socket, lock it, smear a very thin layer of paste on top of the cpu and the bottom of the heatsink and reinstall the heatsink and fan.

I have seen CPUs being pulled out of their socket when trying to remove a fan. This happens with sockets of 478 pins or earlier. One of the reasons that Intel developed the relatively new 775 pin socket was to change the locking mechanism of the cpu and avoid the pull-out problem.
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#7
pip22

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Thanks for your contribution, Skeptic. The OP seems to have gone quiet these past couple of days. Would be nice to know if he managed it.
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#8
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Hi guys

My home computer is offline at the mo

An IT guy I know is having a look at the processor & trying to fix itr for me

Thanks for your help

I will let you guys know the outcome
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#9
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Morning Guys

I have been search the web for a supplier of processor's - Anyone know of any

Also does it have to be an exact match to the one I have, I am thinking it does but just thought it would be worth asking

The one I have at the moment is -

Intel Pentium 4 - 2.80 ghz /512/533/1.525v
SL6HL MALAY
L244A732-0188

Edited by Bolt- 10, 12 February 2007 - 03:00 AM.

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#10
SRX660

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Look here.

http://www.newegg.co...N82E16819116215

or here.

https://www.granitec...PENTIV2.8/SL7J5

These processors are disappearing fast. Soon you won't be able to find them readily available.

The only alternative is a MB/CPU combo kit which usually means ram replacement also.

SRX660
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