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Upgrading Power Supply...ran into problems

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I have a Dell Inspiron 530 with the stock power supply (350w)

After doing some research to find a supply that will work but with higher watts (so I can upgrade video card)I purchased the Antec BP550 ATX

I get it all connected and fire it up, all fans are going, I can feel hard drive spinning, dvd tray opens...but nothing else...no start up beeps and monitors aren't even registering anything was turned on.

Turn everything off, then back on. I get a beep, fans still going but nothing else, no picture, no sound.

Check all the connections, turn it back on and I get the first problem again no beep.

I put back in the old power supply, boots up like a champ (using it now!).

I set a jumper on the power supply pins 13&14 and tested all of the connections from the Power Supply and every single connection has nearly perfect settings, I think it was 3.36 and 12.03...very minimal.

Besides the wattage the only big difference I can see is the old power supply did not have a "on/off" switch, it only used the front panel switch and this new one has an on/off switch.

So any solutions you guys might have, any thing else I can check?

Thanks so much, everyone here rules!
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Hi Donutt007 sorry to hear you are having issues with your new psu.
This sounds like a defective psu and possibly the 12v 4 pin atx connector.
The only way of establishing this other than fitting the new psu into
another computer which will put the psu under load conditions is to have
it checked out by a suitably qualified person with the suitable equipment.
See the canned text below provided by Digerati;

To properly and conclusively test a power supply unit (PSU), it must be tested under various realistic "loads" then analyzed for excessive ripple and other anomalies. This is done by a qualified technician using an oscilloscope or power analyzer - sophisticated (and expensive) electronic test equipment requiring special training to operate, and a basic knowledge of electronics theory to understand the results. Therefore, conclusively testing a power supply is done in properly equipped electronic repair facilities.

Fortunately, there are other options that are almost as good. I keep a FrozenCPU Ultimate PSU Tester in my tool bag when I am "in the field" and don't have a good spare power supply to swap in. While not a certain test, they are better than nothing. The advantage of this model is that it has an LCD readout of the voltage. With an actual voltage readout, you have a better chance of detecting a "failing" PSU, or one barely within specified ATX Form Factor Standard tolerances. Lesser models use LEDs to indicate the voltage is just within some "range". These are less informative, considerably cheaper, but still useful for detecting PSUs that have already "failed". Newegg has several testers to choose from. All these testers contain a "dummy load" to fool the PSU into thinking it is connected to a motherboard, and therefore allows the PSU to power on, if able, without being attached to a motherboard - great for testing fans, but again, it is not a true load or suitable for conclusive testing.

Swapping in a known good supply is a tried and trued method of troubleshooting, used for years even by pros. If you have access to a suitably sized, spare power supply, carefully remove the suspect supply and replace it with a known good one and see if the problem goes away.

I do not recommend using a multimeter to test power supplies. To do it properly, that is, under a realistic load, the voltages on all the pins must be measured while the PSU is attached to the motherboard and the computer powered on. This requires poking (with some considerable force) two hard and sharp, highly conductive meter probes into the main power connector, deep in the heart of the computer. One tiny slip can destroy the motherboard, and everything plugged into it. It is not worth the risk considering most multimeters, like plug-in testers, do not measure, or reveal any unwanted and potentially disruptive AC components to the DC voltages.

Note the required voltage tolerance ranges:

And remember, anything that plugs into the wall can kill. Do not open the power supply's case unless you are a qualified electronics technician. There are NO user serviceable parts inside a power supply.
Thanks to Digerati for the use of the canned text.
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