Source: http://www.kerrdenta...lloys-optimix-2
It's worth about $1500... & well he plugged it in and it was working fine for about 20 minutes. Than all of a sudden he also turned on another piece of equipment that uses a fair amount of wattage at the same time, on the same power strip. Something he had never done before because he would always run appliances independently by making sure other appliances were off on the same power strip. Turns out that after turning on the second appliance, and leaving the mixer on it duffed up the mixer. Now the mixer led screen shows "XXXXXXXXXXXX" [just the letters X across]. It lights up, just doesn't show the O/S as it would normally. The machine gets power, and seems to work, but the O/S isn't showing up.
He asked for my help since I know a lot about computers. In my opinion turning two high powered devices on at the same time, on the same power strip. Probably caused a brown out dip in electrical current which wiped the O/S from the black onboard nand chip/rom chip or what have you. I referred to the manual and all it said about a non working display is to check the fuses. Mind you the screen isn't blotchy, isn't damaged to the eye, it's just not showing the operating system only the letter "X' across the whole screen.
This is what the screen would normally look like working:
I took the fuses out and they seem to be fine. They're not charred, and the wire isn't melted, or broken away/separated. It does seem as if the wires in both fuses are somewhat slanted, but they look like they're connected on each end of the fuse correctly.
The two fuses are rated 0.63A 250V for 115/120V American Standard use, and look kind of like this with the wire slanted in the middle:
As you can see the wire in the google example is slanted but still connected. The photo below is a style of fuse I have usually seen with the wire directly centered in the middle:
I took the unit appart, and it's fairly basic looking inside compared to a computer. It looks like basic calculator style parts lol [jokes]. Anyways there is no charring on the internal motherboard, capacitors look fine, and the unit powers on as I said before. I think the unit lost the O/S in during a power fluctuation. That' my opinion... I have lost the onboard rom/nand O/S off an external hard drive enclosure before. Though I was lucky enough to find it through google and flash it back to the external enclosure. Which worked! But this is a dental device and you won't find that online, nor will you find a way to connect it to a pc obviously.
So my questions are:
1. What do you think happened?
2. Could buying two new fuses make the unit work? If so what are the chances percentage wise?
3. I know little about fuses, but from my understanding if one is done for the wire would be melted, or split. Could it be semi functional yet still power the unit? I wouldn't think a semi damaged fuse would even allow power through.
Thanks
Any help for this $1500 mess would be helpful.