[UV_Power]

OK. So, the new Volcano is installed and I am running it now for the first time. Except, even with the fan controller installed, it is running at a constant 5500+ rpms (which is QUITE noisy) and no matter where I turn the dial, it stays that way. I guess I can deal with it for now, but anyone else with a volcano 12 get this problem?

As for the temps, I went from an IDLE at 50C down to 42C. I am not sure what the temp is under a load. When I find out, I will post it.

Up next.... Overclocking!

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Hehehe ...... Kind of gives one that comfortable feeling of living in the flight path of a major airport. Thats why I prefer the Thermaltake Silent Boost at 21db with the same cooling properties. Believe your volcano runs anywhere from 20-46db once you figure out the controller.

[Rockster2U]

Hehehe ...... Kind of gives one that comfortable feeling of living in the flight path of a major airport. Thats why I prefer the Thermaltake Silent Boost at 21db with the same cooling properties. Believe your volcano runs anywhere from 20-46db once you figure out the controller.

[UV_Power]

Heh. I figured it out. I had the controller plugged into the wrong connection of the HSF. Works fine now. I am a little dissapointed though. This Volcano only shows a real difference in temp if I have the fan on full blast.

At very loud 5500 rpm, i get an 8 degree drop in IDLE temp.
At comfortable 3000rpm, I get a 2 degree drop in IDLE temp.

the Thermaltake Silent Boost at 21db with the same cooling properties

Really? Not from what I read. Generally heard that you sacrifice performance for noise. That's why I got the Volcano.

Oh well. I guess I am sacrificing performance for noise anyhow, right? So, I'm happy. Off to work I go! I will be back later tonight to start the slow gradual process of overclocking....

[Doby]

You should be seeing a better drop in temp like I said before my 2500 barton at idle and the fan all the way down 2100 rpm or so is at 38c and this is a software read that I checked to be accurate with a digital therometer. So make sure you got case fans that are blowing in the proper direction and all cables are tied up and out of the way, I hate sloppy cabling and I can't stress enough on how much a differance neat cabling can make

Remember when I said about the Abit boards reporting temps high, well with my original bios the temps were reading high, I confirmed this with the thermometer but one day I updated my bios and ever since the temps read what the thermometer read. Guess a bug in the bios that was fixed by a later version. Abits forums is full of posts about inaccurate readings

Now I am not saying to flash the bios just to get better temp readings but maybe consider one of these
to get a better handel on what your temps really are.

I never really mount it in a drive bay or any computer for that matter, I just use it to check temps on different computers to tell how much the software readout is off by.

Rick

[UV_Power]

It's too bad I didn't read your post until just now. I have one of those sitting around and that I have never thought about installing, but I guess I should to see what difference it may or may not show me...

I have overclocked my machine. Very slowly, I took it up to an 11x200 like Rockster2U suggested and it survived the Burn-In tests of Sandra Lite (13 cycles of the continuous loop). At 2200 Mhz, I am running my fan at 4000 rpms and getting a readout of 51C under load and 46C idle, which as you said could be misleading.

I will reinstall my CPU with an external temp sensor and let you all know what my REAL temperature is.

Should I flash the BIOS before I overclock anymore or does it matter if I did it afterwards?
Also, I haven't noticed any changes in my benchmarks yet. What can I use to test my CPU benchmark?

Edited by UV_Power, 12 August 2005 - 12:42 AM.

[UV_Power]

Uh oh! I flashed the BIOS and now my computer wont POST.

Everything is spinning up fine, but nothing is on the screen. I don't understand. I double checked everything. It was the right version, for the right motherboard, and I got the update from www.abit-usa.com. And I cleared my CMOS as well after I was done.

I also used their new flash utility that allows you to update the BIOS through Windows. Maybe that's it. I am also writing to Abit about it, but I was wondering if anyone here could help me out. Is there a way to revert back to my old BIOS settings? I have it saved. But, it's on my hard drive which I can no longer access.

What do I do?

[Rockster2U]

Ouch - sorry to hear that. I guess that hindsight is always 20-20 and I'm a bit old fashioned, but I always flash the old fashioned way and I almost always upgrade to the latest and greatest BIOS version available for any board. If you can't post and you've cleared CMOS using the jumper after disconnecting the main ATX power header from the motherboard, you are going to be toast for a couple of days. Go to www.badflash.com and buy a new chip with the correct BIOS pre-flashed. You can also email [email protected]. Best source available anywhere to get you out of your current predicament although you can also get a new chip from ABIT.

Have you tried starting up while holding down the Insert key? While tapping the Control key?

Sorry to learn of your misfortune.

Regards,

[UV_Power]

As luck would have it, my buddy actually had an extra NF7-S version 2.0 BIOS chip in a computer that he wasn't using anymore and said I could use it. I was thrilled to hear that till he came over and we tried it. It worked in his comp. Not in mine!

He is a techie who works in a computer repair shop and an expert in diagnostics for computer parts. He was stumped and told me that it looks like I would need to buy a new board.

Oh well. At least I didn't have to wait a week to find this out and I save the money from buying a new chip. A new NF7-S is pretty cheap I think ($60 maybe?) so unless ABIT has some good news for me, I will be on the market for a new board. Can anyone recommend a good board (doesn't have to be Abit) for less than $60? Needs a few PCI slots, AGP, Dual Channel, and Socket A....

Looks like my overclocking adventure is delayed for a while....

Edited by UV_Power, 14 August 2005 - 02:10 AM.

[Rockster2U]

Uh oh! I flashed the BIOS and now my computer wont POST.

an expert in diagnostics for computer parts ........ told me that it looks like I would need to buy a new board

I'd find a new "expert" .......... unless there's more to your BIOS flash that you haven't shared with us.

[UV_Power]

Well, he tried a few other things (i'm not sure what), but basically said that something else must've happened while I flashed the BIOS.

I'd find a new "expert" ..........

Well, I guess I could get a second opinion. I'd hate to spend any extra money at another shop just to find out I really do need a new board. I will think about it, though.

[UV_Power]

Well, I took it into another shop. They basically said the same thing. It will cost more for them to find the problem and fix it than to buy a whole new board. So, I am gonna go with the safe bet and buy a new board. Good ol' newegg, here I come...

[Doby]

I would RMA, Abit is very good with such a thing and have a 3 year warrenty, even if it is found to be your fault for the bad bios flash they will replace the board for $25.00 US plus shipping.

Rick

[UV_Power]

Good thinking Doby. I went to ABIT's RMA department and it looks like I may get a new board. Although I can't find the invoice for it so I may have to pay $25.00. But, that is much cheaper than buying a new board from newegg.

BTW, when did the NF7-S jump from $50 a few months ago to $80 today?

[Rockster2U]

They didn't jump pricewise. Have pretty much stayed the same for quite a bit longer than the timeframe you reference. That might explain your problem with your BIOS flash and friend's chip that wouldn't work. If you have the $52 variety, you have an inferior board and more than likely flashed with the wrong bin files.

From my post #15 in this thread .........

one has to be careful because there are three different varieties of NF7 boards on the market today and two of them don't hold a candle to the third one, which is the more expensive of the three.

Regards,


By the way, if you bought from Newegg, just log on and reprint your original invoice.

edit: after-thought ...... since you did the "windows" type flash, chances are minimized that you got the wrong BIOS file because I think (don't know haven't used it) its pretty much automatic. However, it would explain why your friend's chip wouldn't permit you to post. The NF7-S2 is quite different from the NF7S - revision 2.0 ......... Your invoice will identify which one you have.

Edited by Rockster2U, 15 August 2005 - 04:54 PM.

[Doby]

Yea thats why I like Abit thier warrenty and rma department is so good, the one time I had to rma a board I had it cross shiped witch requirers a $150.00 refundable deposit I had a new board in 5 days. It took a little long to get my deposit back about a month but I got it.

By the way, if you bought from Newegg, just log on and reprint your original invoice.

Good thinkin Rockster2U