i have to agree with lil cat... somehow i feel like using programs like Dreamweaver and FrontPage is akin to 'cheating'... XD but that's just me. i prefer using raw HTML, and it's an easy language to learn (unlike PHP or C++). it's fairly simple to teach yourself HTML without the assistance of books or classes-- all you really need is a good Google search on tutorials. as you practice, your knowledge expands and you can do more and more things with it.
i swear by HTML-Kit
for webdesign; it's handy for both beginners (has an optional auto-complete and lots of helpful form/table/etc.-building options) and more experienced users (CSS, PHP, etc. plugins).