[Aaron Bongart]

Looks like it.

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Sorry to say this but I find myself using the canned speech below rather too often;

There is possibly only one thing more dangerous than knowingly using a suspect PSU and that is using one that you have never heard of, have a look at the links I have provided they will hopefully bare out what I am saying;

http://forum.pcmech....ide-inside.html
http://www.10stripe....d/psu/brand.php
http://www.realhardt...vos/Page541.htm

And what happens to cheap and nasty PSUs;

[phillpower2]

Sorry to say this but I find myself using the canned speech below rather too often;

There is possibly only one thing more dangerous than knowingly using a suspect PSU and that is using one that you have never heard of, have a look at the links I have provided they will hopefully bare out what I am saying;

http://forum.pcmech....ide-inside.html
http://www.10stripe....d/psu/brand.php
http://www.realhardt...vos/Page541.htm

And what happens to cheap and nasty PSUs;

[Aaron Bongart]

Yes and I also had an histachi deskstar that lasted 2 and a half years before it failed back when they were known to fail within the first year 50% of the time. I only baught this power supply because it had all kinds of voltage protections on it and it was fairly inexpensive. I already mentioned that I checked my voltage and found them all to be within safe ranges. You do make a valid point but I do not see how my current PSU could be the problem if I had the problem BEFORE I got the new PSU.

[phillpower2]

Please see the highlighted text below;

Thanks for the screenshot, it is showing a high temp and a low +12V rail so I suggest running Everest and see what that reports;

Download and install Free Everest Home Edition http://www.filehippo...d_everest_home/

Open it.
1: In left pane expand Computer folder.
2: Click once on Summary
3: In upper menu, go Report
4: And then to Quick Report-Summary
5: Save it in text file, and paste it in your next post.
Click the + by computer, click on Sensor. Get a screenshot and post it so your temps and voltages can be checked.


DO NOT INCLUDE ANYTHING UNDER THE LINE THAT SAYS "DEBUG- PCI"

Can you not remember the brand name of the card
Thats a serious card and costs a serious amount of money to forget the details
Serious video cards require very capable PSUs, something that the present PSU is not.

NB: You can uninstall Speedfan at your leisure

Your edited post;

I may have mistyped. I am pretty sure I said I had 2 sticks. each worth 2 gbs. I will do the tests suggested by both of you as soon as possible.

Phil I already included everest results in this thread. I also checked the bios to see and my voltages are withing the safe parameters listed.
You did not provide either temp or voltage readings, your Speedfan results do not confirm this, when you are in the BIOS the PSU and video card are not being stressed and thus the reason I asked for you to try Everest again

keep in mind I ran something like 16 passes with memtest on my ram and found no issues.

I understand that intermittent failures are more difficult to diagnose then consistent ones.

I do not think that the video card is the culprit only because the problems started BEFORE I upgraded the video card. The problems also started BEFORE the new PSU.
What was the brand and output of the previous PSU and why did you need to replace it?

So I have replaced pretty much everything but the OS, when I have free time I may just get a junk hard drive and instal vista on it then leave it running idle and see if it hangs like my current set up does when I dont have stuff running in the backround.

However College keeps me busy so I am hard pressed for time.

You do make a valid point but I do not see how my current PSU could be the problem if I had the problem BEFORE I got the new PSU.
Same as above;
What was the brand and output of the previous PSU and why did you need to replace it?

Please understand that we are trying to help you to resolve this but we cannot without your help and I don`t think answering questions or providing screenshots is too much to ask!

[Aaron Bongart]

Ok sorry...

The previous power supply was an antec TP 650.
I replaced it because it was old and did not have as much power as I would have liked.

I will run everest and give you the read out shortly I have to get to bed soon.

[phillpower2]

The previous power supply was an antec TP 650.

A far superior PSU than the present one, if you still have the Antec you should re-fit that as a priority after all you have already identified that the issue is still occurring after the swap.

I replaced it because it was old and did not have as much power as I would have liked.

Define old, the Antec True Power 650W PSU has/had a 5yr warranty and unless it was faulty it would out perform the present PSU.

So you can see where I am coming from have a look at the 800 - 900W PSUs at the link http://www.newegg.co...ame=801W - 900W
Some of those listed couldn`t be trusted as a paperweight but others you can put your trust in, the clue is the cost as in you get what you pay for.

If Everest does not provide the readings we need another program such as HWMonitor should be used.

[Aaron Bongart]

Just so you know I havent forgotten to run everest I just been really busy with college. I should get to it soon.

[Troy]

There is a lot happening in this thread, I have just read the whole thing from the beginning so here is some fresh eyes (and possibly a repeat of some notes):

The only things in device manager that have anything wrong with them are..


PCI simple communications controller
SM Bus Controller

They were like that when I installed the motherboard I could never find the correct drivers for them. Maybe I should try again.

You cannot expect any form of stability if you have not installed all the drivers properly. You must install the drivers immediately after installing the operating system. Usually there will be a driver installer disc that comes with the motherboard, and each individual component if it needs it (e.g. graphics card, add-in wifi card etc...). Can you please report if all the drivers are now properly installed?

I am going to purchase a new hard drive soon and once again clone everything onto it from the current drive with acronis. The more I think about it my OS only started to show signs of corruption after I installed like 20 different language packs with windows update. IT was only after that event that windows update started failing to be able to instal any more critical updates. It was at that point in time when my OS gradually started to misbehave.

Why would you install all the optional language packs? How many languages do you speak? Personally I would be looking at a fresh install and just hide those updates, you don't need them. Also another question, what is the quality of the Vista install DVD like? Is it a genuine OEM or a copy? Is it clean and shiny or does it have scratches? And another point to make, if you suspect the OS is corrupted, why would you even consider cloning it? Fresh install and setup for sure.

I have a gamer series 880 Wat PSU.

Speedfan is reporting that your +12V rail is very low, this definitely needs to be corrected as has been detected previously by other staff. What brand is the PSU? If it is the one Phill has asked in #45 return it and get a refund, you'll need the cash to go toward a proper Power Supply. Something like the Antec HCG-900 would be a good option, or Corsair HX-850 for modular capability.

And also as previously requested, have you updated the motherboard BIOS yet?

Heaps of fun in this thread for sure. There was a time when I had similar stability issues and I didn't give up, eventually I resolved everything and before you know it I am now doing this kind of stuff as my full-time work. Ah the joys.

[Aaron Bongart]

Got a blue screen from running everest. Now you can see why I wanted to wait. It always bluescreens when the everest load screen mentions CPU speeds. Then I rebooted and when I tried to run this site I got

Mini021412-02.dmp 2/14/2012 2:10:22 PM IRQL_NOT_LESS_OR_EQUAL 0x1000000a 0x00000014 0x00000002 0x00000000 0x82acb0c2 ntoskrnl.exe ntoskrnl.exe+b30c2 NT Kernel & System Microsoft® Windows® Operating System Microsoft Corporation 6.0.6002.18533 (vistasp2_gdr.111025-0338) 32-bit ntoskrnl.exe+b30c2 ntoskrnl.exe+41bf4 ntoskrnl.exe+84eeb ntoskrnl.exe+39378 C:\Windows\Minidump\Mini021412-02.dmp 8 15 6002 160,784

Another Blue screen except this one was an IRQL one.

This is really frustrating that we can have all this diagnostic information and still no clue as to the prime source of the problem.

Attached Files

•  bsod.txt   1.82KB   157 downloads

Edited by Aaron Bongart, 14 February 2012 - 01:17 PM.

[Macboatmaster]

Take out a stick of ram run with one stick in DDR3 - 1.

Return ram settings to default

[phillpower2]

There is a lot happening in this thread, I have just read the whole thing from the beginning so here is some fresh eyes (and possibly a repeat of some notes):

Thanks Troy (my eyesight isn`t as good as it used to be )

In addition to what Macboatmaster has suggested, as you cannot run Everest use HWMonitor instead and provide a screenshot please http://www.cpuid.com.../hwmonitor.html

To obtain your video card details http://www.filehippo.../download_gpuz/

[Aaron Bongart]

There you go. As I said before it looks low on the HW monitor but in the bios the V are in the safe range.

http://gpuz.techpowe...2/02/14/5f4.png

Video card

Attached Thumbnails

• 

Edited by Aaron Bongart, 14 February 2012 - 03:47 PM.

[Macboatmaster]

So try the ONE stick in DDR3-1 and if that Blue screens or freezes swop the sticks.
Retrun all Ram settings voltages and timings to default
Please confirm when YOU have done this

[happyrock]

sorry wrong topic...

[phillpower2]

There you go. As I said before it looks low on the HW monitor but in the bios the V are in the safe range.

http://gpuz.techpowe...2/02/14/5f4.png

Video card

Speedfan and now HWMonitor have both shown a problem with a low +12V output!
HWMonitor has also shown a problem with a high +5V output!
Where are you getting your information from telling you that the voltages in the BIOS are in the "safe range"
Provide us with a screenshot of these readings in the BIOS please, don`t forget what I have said previously that when you are in the BIOS the PSU and the rest of the system are under the least amount of load as possible.
The true voltages that the software has produced are showing that the PSU is ruining your computer, see the PSU tolerance table below and compare your +12V and +5V outputs;