[Colorado7]

It's as if it's trying to power up when i push the power button, because the system fans starts rotating for a tenth of a second and the LED for it turns on, but then the computer just shuts down. Confirmed this morning that it's still not working.

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What a painful experience you have had with this

I suggest that you go right back to the basics, it will be time consuming but after having done so many checks and replacements already you are running out of options I`m afraid.

Remove all components from the case and do a barebones set up on a large piece of cardboard, it must be large enough to accommodate all of the hardware, to begin with connect only the bare essentials such as the storage device that has the OS on it, one stick of Ram, the MBs display port - screen, the PSU and the keyboard/mouse, if the MB does not have a power button you will need to short out the two power switch pins on the MB header** using a paper clip or small flat bladed screwdriver, it is perfectly safe if you do not touch anything else.

Try playing a demanding game etc with this set up and see if it is stable or it crashes, if it crashes then I would inspect the MB closely to see if there is any damage to the board itself or the soldered circuits, remove the CPU and check for bent/missing pins and finally check that there is no damage to the CPU socket itself and that there is no excess of thermal compound in the socket etc.

**The pins that your case power on button connects to.

Got to go out for a couple of hrs now but will check back around 4 - 4.30pm UK time.

[phillpower2]

What a painful experience you have had with this

I suggest that you go right back to the basics, it will be time consuming but after having done so many checks and replacements already you are running out of options I`m afraid.

Remove all components from the case and do a barebones set up on a large piece of cardboard, it must be large enough to accommodate all of the hardware, to begin with connect only the bare essentials such as the storage device that has the OS on it, one stick of Ram, the MBs display port - screen, the PSU and the keyboard/mouse, if the MB does not have a power button you will need to short out the two power switch pins on the MB header** using a paper clip or small flat bladed screwdriver, it is perfectly safe if you do not touch anything else.

Try playing a demanding game etc with this set up and see if it is stable or it crashes, if it crashes then I would inspect the MB closely to see if there is any damage to the board itself or the soldered circuits, remove the CPU and check for bent/missing pins and finally check that there is no damage to the CPU socket itself and that there is no excess of thermal compound in the socket etc.

**The pins that your case power on button connects to.

Got to go out for a couple of hrs now but will check back around 4 - 4.30pm UK time.

[Colorado7]

Actually yesterday I already checked the CPU and the CPU socket itself, and it was fine. So basically you wan't me to test mobo + 1 RAM + SSD (with OS) + CPU ?

[iammykyl]

Gday Phillpower2, Thanks for answering the call and coming in with suggestions. Was considering the bare bones but Was hoping there may have been other steps first.


Colorado7
Apologies that questing and instruction are basic, but would like to ensure that every step has been covered.

Actually yesterday I already checked the CPU and the CPU socket itself,

Did you remove all old TIM from the CPU top and the heatsink base?
Did you apply new TIM?
Have you connected the CPU fan to the CPU fan header on the MB.

So basically you wan't me to test mobo + 1 RAM + SSD (with OS) + CPU ?

Yes. Please use your old RAM inserted into slot 2.
Use the MB power on button.
Watch for the LEDs on the keyboard to flash.
If it powers on OK, leave run for about five minuets.
Shut down, Install the video card, connect the monitor, test.

[Colorado7]

Update:

I tested what you said, a barebone test on cardboard. As you can see from the picture below, I put the mobo on the cardboard and the only things which were installed:
- CPU and CPU heat sink
- HDMI from mobo to screen
- SSD (with Win7 installed)
- 24-pin Power cable from PSU to Mobo
- 4-pin Power cable from PSU to Mobo (for CPU)
- Mouse and Keyboard in the USB slot

http://imgur.com/IMmIPwY

The exact same thing happened. My system is trying to boot up, and then just shuts down after a tenth of a second. In this case the CPU fan actually starts moving for that tenth of a second before everything just shuts down.

I have a video of this sequence, it is 2 minutes long and from my phone. (I am currently uploading the video to youtube so it should be ready in about 1 hour).

However, while checking the CPU and the Socket, I did find this!

CPU Socket
http://imgur.com/w3vwgb0
http://imgur.com/eqTKAjF

Actual CPU
http://imgur.com/SWloxaA

If you look at the CPU socket, it looks like one of those 'things' is missing. If you look at the top side of the CPU socket in the middle. I dont know if this is normal or abnormal.

Anyways, I wasn't sure if you wanted me to test with or without the CPU, but if you want me to try to uninstall the CPU and try to boot again I can do that. Just let me know what you think and hopefully I'll hear from you soon. Thanks for the help thus far, I'll be continiously checking this thread today and in the future.

[Colorado7]

Update:

Here is the youtube video when I try to run the system, as described in the post above.

[phillpower2]

This does not bode well for either the MB, CPU or worse case scenario both

You have provided very detailed answers to both the suggestions and questions that I asked with the exception of whether or not you inspected the MB, have you done this.

The following information may be more painful for you but it must be provided, I note the use of an aftermarket CPU cooler, unless the CPU that you purchased was an OEM type that was not provided with a stock Intel heatsink and cooling fan you have voided the CPU warranty, please see my canned text below;

Your aftermarket cooler, a very important thing I must make you aware of is that you do not need the additional heatsink and CPU fan and if you did use it you would void your CPU warranty both AMD and Intel are clear on this, see below;

AMD;
This Limited Warranty shall be null and void if the AMD microprocessor which is the subject of this Limited Warranty is used with any heatsink/fan other than the one provided herewith.
Full AMD article @ http://support.amd.c...earLimited.aspx

Intel;
damage to the Product due to external causes, including accident, problems with electrical power, abnormal electrical, mechanical or environmental conditions, usage not in accordance with product instructions, misuse, neglect, alteration, repair, improper installation, or improper testing;
Full Intel article available @ http://www.intel.com...b/cs-009862.htm

A possible cause of what you describe is the MB flexing when it gets warm and so breaking the flow of clean electrical current through the soldered circuit or the fabric of the MB, potential causes of this include if the MB was not mounted on the stand offs correctly and/or excessive downward pressure was applied when attaching the HS and cooling fan, please have a very close look at your MB for hairline cracks.

You are most welcome BTW iammykyl I am only sorry that what I have recognized is not better news.

[Colorado7]

I forgot to mention that I did not see anything broken on the mobo itself, with my visual inspection. That's not to say it would be possible for me to miss something. Yes, this is an aftermarket CPU heat sink cooler, but I am 100 % sure it installed correctly and the thermal paste as well. At least it was not a heat issue because I looked at the temperature when in idle at Windows desktop and it was not even 30 Celsius, while gaming it never above 60 degrees Celsius. Did you take at a look at the screenshot from the CPU socket? Can you tell me if this is supposed to be this way, or not? Because the actual CPU itself looks fine on both sides to me.

I've had quite a bit of experience building PCs and troubleshooting things, I would say I am a DIY guy and I've probably built around 5-10 computers the last 10 years so I do have quite a bit of knowledge. Never has something like this happened to me before.

I do have an idea, although it may or may not work. In the first post I was quoting a problem with artifacts from old GPU, the Nvidia 570 GTX - which was the entire problem that led to me eventually buying a new PC in new parts in increments. I will try to put my old mobo and CPU together with all the new parts, and see if I can get it booted. There's no guarantee of this however, as I was never 100 % able to pinpoint the artifacts problem to the GPU however that was my first thought. If I get the PC up and running and with that combination I will let you know.

[phillpower2]

Based on the information that you have provided I have made certain observations and responded accordingly, please do not think that your system building ability is being questioned as this is 100% not the case whatsoever

Logic: Two items are ever present with the issue and that is the MB and the CPU - inclusive of the third party heatsink and cooler, you have inspected both the CPU and MB and see no damage and so I suggest that if the MB is covered by warranty you return it for replacement asap, the CPU it would appear you cannot do this with as from the details that you have provided it is the retail type that was provided with a HS and cooler which you have not used.

[Colorado7]

Good news now! I tried booting up all my old parts.
Old parts:
PSU: 750 W Corsair
Mobo: ASUS M4A87TD EVO AMD870
CPU: AMD PH II X6 1090T 3.2G AM3 RT
Ram: 2x 4GB RAM Corsair

New parts:
GPU: NVIDIA 770 GTX
SSD: Samsung EVO 240 GB 840

Ok so after I turned the PC on ..... It did some device things before turning on and then it worked! BAM, im in Windows. Now it seems that it is running stable on Windows. I am going to install every part in the case and then run some games and if the Kernel Power 41 is gone I will be so happy and joyful!

Edit: I wasn't trying to attack you at all, just trying to point out I have a good idea of what I am doing. It's possible that I installed the CPU heatsink wrong and it's possible it was all just a hardware problem from the get-go. Who knows, who cares. The fact that I cant use my warranty for the CPU is annoying, but it is what it is.

Edited by Colorado7, 07 December 2013 - 11:36 AM.

[phillpower2]

Edit: I wasn't trying to attack you at all, just trying to point out I have a good idea of what I am doing.

as per my reply #69, your system building ability was not being questioned I was merely showing the same respect that is appropriate to one and all on the forums

[Colorado7]

Ok, my system is now up and running and I am installing drivers as we speak. Hopefully I can return the new RAM and the new PSU (bought on Thursday) and RMA my mobo, even though it may or may not be defective.

Edit: So to sum up, it is either the CPU OR THE MOBO which is broke, possibly both. I have no way of testing (I dont have a spare extra CPU for that socket nor do I have spare extra mobo with that CPU socket).

Now it remains to be seen if the Kernel Power 41 problem is gone with this setup. It could be one part (CPU and/or Mobo) which caused the non-boot, while another part causes the Kernel Power 41. I don't know, but it sure seems that the KP 41 problem is tied to the new CPU and/or Mobo. We'll see though, my fingers are crossed.

Edited by Colorado7, 07 December 2013 - 12:31 PM.

[Colorado7]

Update 2: Do you think I could install the original CPU fan and pretend as if I used it all the time, and then get a new CPU if it is the CPU which is actually broken? I just don't see how they would know that I used an aftermarket CPU cooler. Aside from the moral side, would it be possible from a technical side?

[phillpower2]

Some information provided courtesy of MS regarding possible causes of the kernel power event ID 41 message;

1.Overclocking: Disable overclocking to see whether the issue occurs when the system is run at the correct speed.
2.Check the memory: Verify the memory by using a memory checker. Verify that each memory chip is the same speed and that it is configured correctly in the system.
3.Power supply: Make sure that the power supply has enough wattage to appropriately handle the installed devices. If you added memory, installed a newer processor, installed additional drives, or added external devices, such devices can require more energy than the current power supply can provide consistently.
4.Overheating: Check whether the system is overheating by examining the internal temperature of the hardware.
5.Defaults: Reset the system back to the system defaults to see whether the issues occur when the system is running in its default configuration.

You have apparently ruled out the above by one means or another so good luck with any RMA.

Just noticed your reply #73

Update 2: Do you think I could install the original CPU fan and pretend as if I used it all the time, and then get a new CPU if it is the CPU which is actually broken? I just don't see how they would know that I used an aftermarket CPU cooler. Aside from the moral side, would it be possible from a technical side?

Honest and only available answer is no

[Colorado7]

Wait, just as you thought it was over.

Kernel Power 41, same crash. With what was running smoothly for a very long time yesterday, suddenly crashes today! Same old problem. I am seriously lost as to what to do.