[Leo_Leonardo]

I return with questions and a interesting tale. 

 

First the interesting tale. At first I couldn't get the PC to start, it would immediately blue screen. It finally started after I changed the Sata mode to RAID instead of IDE or AHCI (not sure of the significance of this).  So remember when you told me my operating system was going to be locked to my last computer? When I started my new build up it still had my last operating system running. Even still says Gateway (the original computer) when it starts. Any idea whats up with that?

 

Now for the questions, most of which have to do with further upgrades.

1. Starting with hard drives. Will the HDD you suggested, Seagate Barracuda ST1000DM003 1TB 7200 RPM 64MB Cache SATA 6.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive Bare Drive (here), give me a speed boost in any area of the computer such as when navigating windows explorer? I attached picture of my old hard drive for comparison. Also will I need to have any HDD I buy run via RAID to make it compatible with the one I'm running now?

 

2. Can you give me the links to a few solid state drives I should keep my eyes on?

 

3. I am currently connecting to the internet via a Netgear Wireless N-300 USB adapter WNA3100. I'm not sure how good it is or if there is a better method for connecting to the internet. Please advise.

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Edited by Leo_Leonardo, 15 July 2014 - 06:46 PM.

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A couple of questions first.

Did you reuse your old drive for the OS/programs? if yes,

Did you delete all partitions on the drive to give your unallocated space before creating a new partition?

 

Edit to add instructions.

 

Please go, start, > run, copy and paste the bold text in the box, diskmgmt.msc > click OK.   Post a screenshot. 

[iammykyl]

A couple of questions first.

Did you reuse your old drive for the OS/programs? if yes,

Did you delete all partitions on the drive to give your unallocated space before creating a new partition?

 

Edit to add instructions.

 

Please go, start, > run, copy and paste the bold text in the box, diskmgmt.msc > click OK.   Post a screenshot. 

[Leo_Leonardo]

I took the hard drive from my old PC and put it straight into the new one. No idea on anything related to the partition question. 

 

The screen shot is attached.

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[iammykyl]

Thanks for the info.

I see from the image you did not install a new OS, so the Gateway on the HDD is in operation.  It surprises me that it would run at all seeing the BOIS do not match.   What decided you not to use the new OS disc?

 

Your current drive WD10EARS is very slow, You would get a good performance boost in all areas using the st1000dm003  (only if you installed an OS on It),  There would be no RAID  configuration to setup.  A basic comparison, > http://www.hardinfo-...formance-review

 

Before considering a SSD.   You would need to do a fresh clean install of the OS, they have limited capacity, so some large programs like Office should be run from a second HDD.   For the moment, consider staying with two mechanical drives as, I think, the current SATA SSDs prices will drop a lot when the newest PCI-E SSDs start selling in a couple of months.

 

Then I would look for my favourite, Samsung 250GB EVO, > http://www.newegg.co...7-248-_-Product

 

Using an Ethernet cable is more stable than wireless but impossible to tell you if it would be better than the speed you are getting at the moment.   This is the type of cable you need so you could do a comparison, you can buy shorter lengths, > http://www.newegg.co...N82E16812120504

[Leo_Leonardo]

Thanks for the info.

I see from the image you did not install a new OS, so the Gateway on the HDD is in operation.  It surprises me that it would run at all seeing the BOIS do not match.   What decided you not to use the new OS disc?

 

Your current drive WD10EARS is very slow, You would get a good performance boost in all areas using the st1000dm003  (only if you installed an OS on It),  There would be no RAID  configuration to setup.  A basic comparison, > http://www.hardinfo-...formance-review

 

Before considering a SSD.   You would need to do a fresh clean install of the OS, they have limited capacity, so some large programs like Office should be run from a second HDD.   For the moment, consider staying with two mechanical drives as, I think, the current SATA SSDs prices will drop a lot when the newest PCI-E SSDs start selling in a couple of months.

 

Then I would look for my favourite, Samsung 250GB EVO, > http://www.newegg.co...7-248-_-Product

 

Using an Ethernet cable is more stable than wireless but impossible to tell you if it would be better than the speed you are getting at the moment.   This is the type of cable you need so you could do a comparison, you can buy shorter lengths, > http://www.newegg.co...N82E16812120504

Re. OS/ HDD.

I'm very confused in general on the hard drive/OS issue. I don't understand the difference between IDE, AHCI, and RAID or why the HDD only worked after switching to RAID. I don't understand the question you asked about deleting partitions. I am completely lost on the part about the BOIS not matching and what that means. Could you help me understand some of this?

 

Also how would I go about getting the OS and all my old programs installed on this new HDD you've suggested? Will the Gateway OS carry over to the new hard drive if I make a back up and initiate said back up on the new HDD? Are there any downsides to having the computer still think it is the Gateway? Sorry for all these questions.

 

Re. HDD upgrade.

Thanks for the info on the ST1000DM, I'll probably be getting that one and putting my OS on it (if I can figure it out). Just one last question on it though. Are there any other hard drives in the $80 dollar price range that are significantly faster or better in general? 

Edit: If the ST1000DM is my best option I will probably buy it in the 3TB model.

Edit: I've done a little more research on the ST1000DM and I'm seeing lots of complaints about short life span (at least on the 3TB model), what are your thoughts on this?

 

Re. Internet connection.

Ethernet cable is not an option for me at home as the only plug in location is downstairs. I was wondering if there was a more powerful wireless adapter so as to minimize the disadvantages of being unable to have a direct connection. 

Edited by Leo_Leonardo, 17 July 2014 - 04:40 PM.

[iammykyl]

 I don't understand the difference between IDE, AHCI, and RAID or why the HDD only worked after switching to RAID.  I am completely lost on the part about the BOIS not matching and what that means.

A simplistic comparison would be to TV channels, IDE/RAID would be like a SD television signal, (standard definition) and, if set in the BIOS, either can be selected by the operating system to use.   AHCI would be like HD, (high definition) and again, if set in the BIOS, can be used by the OS.  If the BIOS setting does not match what the OS wants to use, your compute fails to Boot.

 

Your old MB BIOS would have had IDE/RAID set as default and OS device manager configured to use the same, it may also not have had AHCI drivers installed or enabled.

Your new MB bios would have had AHCI as default in the BIOS.   When you connected the old HDD to the new MB, the OS said use IDE, your BIOS said use AHCI, result a failed Boot.   You changed the BIOS to IDE and got a Boot to the OS.   This did surprise  me as changing the channels after the OS has already been installed, more often than not, still results in a Boot failure.

 

I don't understand the question you asked about deleting partitions.

I asked about partitions before knowing if you had used the new OS disc on the old HDD.  

Please look at the disc image you uploaded, If you had installed the OS from the new disc and installed to Gateway ©, the other two partitions would remain, of no use to you and possible cause problems.

If you were to carry on using the old hard drive and a fresh clean installation of the OS using the new disc, you would delete all partitions, create a new partition, (would contain no Data), then install the new OS, then drivers, then required programs. 

 

Also how would I go about getting the OS and all my old programs installed on this new HDD you've suggested? Will the Gateway OS carry over to the new hard drive if I make a back up and initiate said back up on the new HDD? Are there any downsides to having the computer still think it is the Gateway? 

As a very last resort, using cloning software to migrate the OS to a new HDD, may or may not work.   you would end up with any present software issues on the new HDD + programs and links you did not want like Gateway references.I will look at the best way for your install and get back to you.

 

Are there any other hard drives in the $80 dollar price range that are significantly faster or better in general?   If the ST1000DM is my best option I will probably buy it in the 3TB model.

No.   A comparable drive would be the WD Black, mostly more expensive and many complain it is noisy.  Using a 3TB for the system drive is unnecessary as you would not use the space, and not a good idea for a storage drive because, if it fails you will loose all your Data.   Best practice is to use a 1TB and when it starts to get full, install another one.  

 

Sorry, can't help with the wireless card.   It is impossible to predict how any card would work in a given location.  On one side of a room could be OK, moving to the other side could be excellent.

[Leo_Leonardo]

 

 
  I don't understand the difference between IDE, AHCI, and RAID or why the HDD only worked after switching to RAID.

A simplistic comparison would be to TV channels, IDE/RAID would be like a SD television signal, (standard definition) and, if set in the BIOS, either can be selected by the operating system to use.   AHCI would be like HD, (high definition) and again, if set in the BIOS, can be used by the OS.  If the BIOS setting does not match what the OS wants to use, your compute fails to Boot.
 
Your old MB BIOS would have had IDE/RAID set as default and OS device manager configured to use the same, it may also not have had AHCI drivers installed or enabled.
Your new MB bios would have had AHCI as default in the BIOS.   When you connected the old HDD to the new MB, the OS said use .   You changed the BIOS to IDE and got a Boot to the OS.   This did usprise me as changing the channels after the OS has already been installed, more often than not, stills results in a Boot failure.
 

Wait are you saying it is currently in IDE? If so that is even weirder because It originally booted successfully only after I selected RAID. Originally it failed when selecting both IDE and AHCI. By the way that was a great description, two thumbs up.

Also are there any cons to having my pc think it is still a gateway or should I install a new OS when I purchase my new HDD?

Edited by Leo_Leonardo, 17 July 2014 - 10:22 PM.

[iammykyl]

Gday.

Please reread my reply 51 as there was a glitch with the upload.  I think I covered your questions, 

 

Sorry but I misread, thought you changed to IDE, but the same scenario applied to what is set where, they need to match. 

 

To ensure you don't have any problems, I would do a clean install. 

[Leo_Leonardo]

 

 

 Okey, I will buy the 1 TB HDD you suggested for use as the main C drive, but that doesn't completely solve my storage issues. Since you wouldn't recommend the ST1000DM for anything above 1TB, what kind of storage device should I use for my HD videos? As a video editor I work with a lot of HD footage which as I am sure you know fills up storage devices incredibly fast. I would need something between 2TB to 3TB with fast write and read speeds.

[iammykyl]

Gday.

Where are you storing your video files at the Present?

[Leo_Leonardo]

Gday.

Where are you storing your video files at the Present?

I've been using a 1TB goflex seagate usb3.0 external hard drive. You told me earlier that, "You should have a min of 2 hard drives in the system, 3 would be useful for Vegas. AE, 3 min, more if you can afford it". Do they not need to be internal?

 

Edit: Just ran into a HUGE problem I think. I noticed that my top USB 3.0 port on my case hadn't been working so I opened the case back up. Once I did this I found that a pin on the MB plugin for the USB 3.0 seemed to be missing. Now I don't now how I'm supposed to get the CPU out to return the MB due to the fact I've already installed the CPU fan and TIM. This development has me extremely stressed, please advise.

Edited by Leo_Leonardo, 20 July 2014 - 09:34 PM.

[iammykyl]

That is a pain to discover at this point.  We will leave the HDD questions.

Do all the USB ports on the back of the case work?

The USB header on the MB, should have one pin missing as shown on the beginning of this page, > http://www.overclock...eader-converter

so if you have more than one pin missing, inspect the plug to see if the pin has snapped off and is still in the hole.  The part below is for if you need it, but post back first.

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Now to get that cooler and CPU uninstalled.   It is not a difficult procedure.

First step it to contact the vendor who sold you the MB and seek a RMA, (Return Merchandise Authorization)  Whatch a couple of videos to get the general info.

 

This video is just for some general information > 

This is actual cooler removal > 

 

These are the steps I would like you to follow.

1.   With the PSU off, disconnect everything from the case, except the PSU, > remove the side panel, lay the case down flat.

2.   Disconnect the HDD, > switch the PSU on, > press the power on button, count to ten, > Press the power on button and hold in until the computer powers off.

3.   Switch off the PSU and disconnect the cable.

****************

Make sure the cooler fins are not too hot to touch. 

5.   Disconnect the CPU fan, > unlock the 4 locking pins, gently lift the coaler straight up.

6.   Release the CPU retaining lever, make sure the CPU is not to hot to touch, > lift it straight out of the socket and place to one side on a clean piece of paper. 

7.   Replace the CPU protection cap into the open part of the retaining plate, > close the plate and fasten the retaining lever.

9.   Disconnect all wiring, > remove any add on cards, > remove the RAM, place back in it's packaging, > remove the SATA cable, they must be returned. > remove the I/O shield. > remove the MB and place in the anti static bag.

10.  Place the CPU back in the protective clam shell. 

Place everything that came with the MB, back in the box. 

 

Please post back. 

[Leo_Leonardo]

That is a pain to discover at this point.  We will leave the HDD questions.
Do all the USB ports on the back of the case work?
The USB header on the MB, should have one pin missing as shown on the beginning of this page, > http://www.overclock...eader-converter
so if you have more than one pin missing, inspect the plug to see if the pin has snapped off and is still in the hole.  The part below is for if you need it, but post back first.
****************************
********************************
 
Now to get that cooler and CPU uninstalled.   It is not a difficult procedure.
First step it to contact the vendor who sold you the MB and seek a RMA, (Return Merchandise Authorization)  Whatch a couple of videos to get the general info.
 
This video is just for some general information > 
This is actual cooler removal > 
 
These are the steps I would like you to follow.
1.   With the PSU off, disconnect everything from the case, except the PSU, > remove the side panel, lay the case down flat.
2.   Disconnect the HDD, > switch the PSU on, > press the power on button, count to ten, > Press the power on button and hold in until the computer powers off.
3.   Switch off the PSU and disconnect the cable.
****************
Make sure the cooler fins are not too hot to touch. 
5.   Disconnect the CPU fan, > unlock the 4 locking pins, gently lift the coaler straight up.
6.   Release the CPU retaining lever, make sure the CPU is not to hot to touch, > lift it straight out of the socket and place to one side on a clean piece of paper. 
7.   Replace the CPU protection cap into the open part of the retaining plate, > close the plate and fasten the retaining lever.
9.   Disconnect all wiring, > remove any add on cards, > remove the RAM, place back in it's packaging, > remove the SATA cable, they must be returned. > remove the I/O shield. > remove the MB and place in the anti static bag.
10.  Place the CPU back in the protective clam shell. 
Place everything that came with the MB, back in the box. 
 
Please post back.

So every other usb slot works, a pin is missing, it was not stuck in the plug.
Edit: when I say a pin is missing I mean that in addition to the pin left out by design there is another pin missing.

Edited by Leo_Leonardo, 21 July 2014 - 04:13 PM.

[iammykyl]

Thans for the update.

Edit: when isay a pin is missing I mean that in addition to the pin left out by design there is another pin missing.

In that case, the board should be returned.

I instructed the computer be run for a short time to warm up the TIM, as sometimes, when stone cold, the heatsink can stick quite hard to the CPU.

 

Do you need any clarification to the instructions?

[Leo_Leonardo]

Thans for the update.

Edit: when isay a pin is missing I mean that in addition to the pin left out by design there is another pin missing.

In that case, the board should be returned.

I instructed the computer be run for a short time to warm up the TIM, as sometimes, when stone cold, the heatsink can stick quite hard to the CPU.

 

Do you need any clarification to the instructions?

Yes, will I need to remove the TIM for any reason or reapply after acquiring the new motherboard? I ask because It came with the TIM already applied so I have none on me at the moment.

 

Edit: Also is it most likely that the missing pin is the problem, or is there another reason the usb port might not be working?

 

Edit: I have included to pictures two pictures. One shows the missing pin location and the other Shows that the pin is not stuck in the plug.

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Edited by Leo_Leonardo, 21 July 2014 - 04:47 PM.